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I'm planning a long trip, and although my engine is running quite well, I'm wondering what kinds of things I could check to make a breakdown less likely during the trip. - Top
- As a general rule, unless you plan to take sufficient time to debug things, and give your engine the chance to "settle back in", I don't like to see folks performing major maintenance or replacing a lot of components just prior to a long trip. I believe it makes more sense to take spare parts. I would reconsider this advice in cases where access to a particular component is so bad that changing it would be very difficult while at a strange port. In those cases, replacement prior to departing may make more sense.
Having said all that, you might consider the following (light) maintenance if there is no documentation of it having been done recently:
COOLING SYSTEM:
1) Remove the water jacket side plate for inspection (including the distribution cap on the inside of the "T" fitting). Replace any parts that show signs of corrosion, and thoroughly reseal the plate.
2) Remove the brass elbow from the rear outlet of the manifold. Inspect for blockage within the elbow and in the water jacket of the manifold just under the fitting. If you discover a lot of crud just below this fitting, you can most likely remove it by scraping around with a small screwdriver or part of a coat hanger.
3) Remove the thermostat for cleaning (soaking in vinegar overnight).
4) Check all water hoses for general condition, and replace any that appear soft.
FUEL SYSTEM:
1) Insure that there is a good primary fuel filter installed between the tank and the fuel pump and a small inline filter between the fuel pump and carburetor. If you do not currently have a good primary filter, the RACOR filter from West Marine (for gasoline engines, and with a water separator) works very well.
2) If you have decent access to the main passage plug in the bottom of the carburetor, I recommend removing it and catching all the fuel in a small glass jar. All of the fuel in the carburetor will drain out through this plug, along with any dirt that may have been lurking there and getting ready to enter (or try to enter) and pass through the main jet.
With the main passage plug still removed, operate the fuel pump and flush at least a couple pints of fuel through the entire system and out through the main passage plug. When the fuel appears perfectly clean, reinstall the passage plug, being careful to not over-tighten and damage the fiber washer under the head of the plug, and work the fuel pump to recharge the carburetor
IGNITION (ELECTRICAL) SYSTEM:
1) Replace spark plugs, points and condenser, and check spark plug wires and the alternator belt for cracks and brittleness.
NOTE: The most common reason that ignition systems break down, in cases where an engine has been reasonably well maintained, is that the primary electrical circuit between the starter solenoid and the positive terminal of the coil develops a bad connection.
2) Inspect as much of the wiring between the engine and the cockpit as possible; but ultimately, my recommendation is to have a short jumper wire prepared to connect between the big battery cable on the starter solenoid and the positive terminal of the coil. This wire, when installed, will bypass all of the circuit (some of which you probably will not even be able to see) and provide positive ignition.
Remember that whenever this jumper wire is installed, it is equivalent to turning the ignition switch to the "ON" position, so be sure to remove it whenever you are not operating the engine.
RECOMMENDED SPARE PARTS:
1) Coil
2) Four new plugs
3) Spare fuel pump
4) Spare water pump
5) Three or four feet of engine water hose, fuel line (with appropriate size hose clamps), and a small roll of electrical wire (12 or 14 gauge).
6) A roll of good quality electrical tape.
7) Spare filter elements for any filters you have on board.
8) Spare alternator. This item is obviously optional due to the relatively high cost, and the space required to store it. I include it here simply because most of us rely so heavily on a good source of DC power for so many of the things that we have grown to consider essential.
RECOMMENDED TOOLS (In addition to normal hand tools and a copy of the Moyer Marine Service and Overhaul Manual):
1) A small digital volt/ohm meter.
2) A three-foot length of 14 gauge wire with a ring terminal on one end and a clip on the other. This wire can be used to "hot wire" the ignition system in the event of a failure of the primary circuit within the boat's electrical system.
3) Electrical crimping tool and a small supply of ring terminals, butt splices, etc.
4) Remote starter switch (available for about $10 at most auto parts stores).
I hope this helps you to get started. Hopefully, as your knowledge of the engine grows, you'll be able to add more items to this list which make sense to you, given your particular boating style and specific plans for your trip. - Updated:
January 9, 2004
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