Long break between project . . .

[macplee]

I need to take a long break (1-2 years) from my working on my Atomic 4 and I need some suggestions on how I should leave this project. The boat is on stands in my backyard and I have no intension on giving up. Something came up that I know I won't be able to attend to this project for a little bit.

My original intension was to fire up the engine this year then winterize it so I can continue my restoration project on the rest of the boat over this winter and spring.

Currently, the A4 is not connected to the exhaust (needs replacing, have parts), not connected to raw water (missing hose and need a strainer, have parts), and I just took off the alternator, replaced the thermostat, water pump and gas filter. The water inside the engine was already drained out by the previous owner.

Here are two options I am considering:

(1) Pump out the oil and the old gasoline and seal all holes/hoses and pickup where I left off a when I am ready again.

(2) Put everything back together in working order and get the engine fired up then winterize it with anti-freeze and engine oil in it?

What do you think?

Thanks for any advice.
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Club Royal Condos Wong Amat (http://pattayaluxurycondos.com)

[David Masury]

I do not think that you have to re-assemble the engine to put in storage... since you have some parts removed and putting it back together would take time, here is what I would recommend.

1. Change the oil, and turn the engine over, even by hand to get some of it through the engine
2. Put some oil in each cylinder (a couple of tablespoonfuls), turn the engine over by hand a cople of times to coat the cylinder walls. Put the plugs back in.
3. If your engine is fresh water cooled, flush and change the coolant using a hose, if it is raw water cooled, fill the engine water jacket with antifreeze. Pump it in by hand.
4. Do not wrap the engine in plastic (promotes condensation on engine) , plug what holes there may be, such as your exhaust manifiold, the carb, etc.... to prevent surface rust, you could spray the engine with WD40.
5. Make sure that you take the battery off the boat.
6. Fill the fuel tank, stabilize the fuel. Make sure the fuel shut off on the tank is closed.. an empty tank is more dangerous than a full one.... you may end up throwing this fuel away when you get back to working on the project.
7. When you cover the boat, leave room for ventilation. If possible leave at least one hatch open.

Good Luck,

David Masury

[macplee]

David,

Thanks for the help. I have few more questions.

You mean to put some engine oil in the cylinder via the spark plug holes, hand crank it a few turns and put the plugs back on?

Why do you think an empty tank is more dangerous? Condensation? Fume?

So you think having anti-freeze mixed water in the engine is better than a dried and drained engine? BTW, it is a raw water A4.

Thanks
________
condos in Pattaya (http://pattayaluxurycondos.com)

[David Masury]

Yes... oil in each cylinder via the spark plug hole... replace the plugs after you rotate the engine... this keeps the inside lubed etc. you can use a spray type of engine store product, but you more than likely already have engine oil.

Empty fuel tanks are basically an explosion waiting to happen..others may have a different idea, but fuel vapors are explosive and it does not take much to ignite. Thus the reason we run the blower prior to starting our A 4s

Antifreeze contains rust inhibitors... if the block is full using a 50/50 mix as you would a car engine, then you less likely will have any additional scale build up while the engine sits.

I am sure that Don will jump in a some point and offer additional thoughts.

David

[Don Moyer]

David's advice has been right on target. In putting oil into the cylinders, use a squirt can and try to "aim" the oil (Mystery Oil works well) away from the manifold side of the engine so that it does not simply run directly down and into the manifold.

Don