New Batteries

[charles@pricefarrington.c]

Just an FYI. I've had hard starting issues on my A-4. I just installed new batteries and problem resolved. The old ones were not bad but the new ones are glass mat and work great, better cranking and they last much longer.

[sastanley]

Charles,
Did you do an electrolyte test on the old batteries? I have one dead battery that I brought home and have been fiddling with it on the charger, but I do not think it will come back. My 'good' battery that is still in the boat was only reading about 12.1v this past weekend, but i had no trouble turning the A4 over or starting it with that battery & it cranked for 10-12 seconds before it started.

What I am getting at is, I'd be interested to see what minimum battery condition (voltage) would still start the engine?

[charles@pricefarrington.c]

Sorry, I didn't check. The house battery would not start the boat after a good charge and with minimal usage of lights etc.. The main battery would start the boat, but turn over was weak. I would guess the main battery was weak and the house was just not usable for anything but lighting.

[David Masury]

Always check your connections.... keep them clean, bright and coated with di-electric grease. Often corrosion masks itself as a weak battery.

David

[rigspelt]

I like this rule of thumb. Approximate battery charge and specific gravity after no load (disconnected from a load circuit) for 24 hours. (after Wing Figure 3.10):
100% if 12.6 V, SG 1.265.
75% if 12.4 V, SG 1.225.
50% if 12.2 V, SG 1.190.
25% if 11.9 V, SG 1.155.
0% if 11.6 V, SG 1.120.

Assuming the charger works and all connections were clean, bright and tight, a good battery should settle at 12.6 volts after being disconnected from the load circuit for a time. Engine start batteries have thinner plates than deep cycle. They can handle short deeper discharges during cranking, but don't like to live at low charge states.