Broken oil pressure fitting

[Jerry Chandler]

The oil pressure gauge brass fitting broke in my A4 block. Next I broke the easy out, trying to back out the fitting.
Any suggestions for what to do next? Can I drill and not worry about shavings getting into the oil.
How important is the oil gauge anyway?
Moyer rebuilt the motor in July of 1997 and I put in an electronic ignition and the motor really runs well. But what to do next?
Jerry Chandler
Austin, Texas
Cataling 27, Dott Calm
Thanks.

[Don Moyer]

Jerry,

I'm so sorry to hear of your plight! I have said many times that Easy-Outs are definitely the work of the devil, and this is a good example.

I can't think of an easy way out of your situation. Perhaps someone else on the Forum can share something that would make sense. The last time I got suckered into using an Easy-Out and broke it, I had to use a small drift punch to pound it (the broken Easy-Out) sideways enough to get it to loosen a bit. I was then able to slowly get it to rotate until I could continue turning it with needle nose pliers. In the process, I damaged the original threads and had to over-drill the hole and tap the next sized hole. I can't recall where I tried the Easy-Out, but I don't remember it being in the oil sender hole.

The oil sender is (at least in my judgment) critical. However, you don't have to install it in that particular hole. There are two other pressure taps in the block: one just behind the carburetor and one above the oil pressure regulating valve. If the Easy-Out is completely blocking the hole, you could consider covering the opening with epoxy and installing the sender in another hole as a temporary solution until you have more time to work on the Easy-Out (perhaps a winter project).

Regards,

Don

[Jerry Chandler]

Don,
The other taps are a great idea. Thanks.
Jerry

[tartan30cirrus]

Don, Jerry, et. al.,

I can't believe I did it but I too broke my fitting to while trying to get a too tight a fit of the mechanical OP guage on the 2" long nipple that the electric sender was on. The nipple snapped not at the threads going into the block but the other end of the nipple so I have a couple on inches sticking out. I will be trying PB Blaster and soak the joint where it threads into the block and get some strond needlenose vise-grips. If that does not work I plan on cutting a slot w/ a hack saw in the end of the pipe and trying to back it out with a large flathead. Won't be easy or fun or quick but will try.

Any other thoughts? What did you end up doing Jerry? I may just get a T fitting and use one of the other ports for now. Can I use a T-fitting with barbs and hoses and mount the OP safety switch and sender on a bulkhead (I may not have room otherwise)?

Cheers,
Clint

[Don Moyer]

Clint,

If you do move your sending unit over to the bulkhead, remember to run a ground wire to the sender. Oil pressure senders (like temperature senders) rely on a good connection to ground to work.

Don

[Jerry Chandler]

Clint,
I moved the sending unit to the tap behind the carb. Had to remove my carb to do it, but worked best for me and access to my engine. I'm sure Cataline put the engines in befor the hull liner/interior and never had to acturally work on one, but that's another post...
Then put epoxy, I used JB Weld over old broken fitting.
If I had it to do over, I would cut a notch in the old fitting and screw it out, not going near the easy out approach.
My best wishes.
Jerry

[skhorleb]

Don,

The oil pressure gauge on my A4 is....er ah....was installed just behind the flywheel. My knee bumped it while pulling a water hose off the thermostat housing. I snapped the oil pressure gauge brass fitting flush with my A4 block. I am going to retap this to get it out and then install another 2" brass fitting. However, I wanted to make absolutely sure I have the right size tap with the correct number of threads per inch for the pressure tap in the block. Is the is 3/8" diameter and 24 threads per inch?

Thank you,

Steve H

[Don Moyer]

Steve,

Thank heaven you asked! The answer is no, that's an 1/8" tapered pipe fitting. And, although I hate to admit this, it's the one place on the engine that we've had success in using a devil-inspired "Easy-out" to remove twisted off fittings. Take the part that broke off in to your local hardware store and ask them for a spiraled Easy-out that hand tightens approximately half way in on the tool. Then, being extremely careful to hold the Easy-out straight, use a medium-sized adjustable wrench and try to back the broken nipple out.

Use an 1/8" pipe tap if you have to dress up the threads.

If you have to go to plan two and drill the broken part out, it will be very difficult to retrieve the drilling debris.

Don

[skhorleb]

Don,

Thank you again, oh Great Sage! I tried the "easy out" in concert with some PB Blaster, but the wrench started to flex, so I went to Plan B before I broke off the darn thing. Drilled out the brass fitting starting with a 9/32" bit, then 5/16" bit, and finally a 11/32" bit. Kept lots of oil on the bits, backed them out frequently, wiped the brass shavings off the bit, applied more oil, etc. I hope this prevented many brass shavings from falling into the crank case.

Thank God brass is a soft metal. 'Could not get a power drill into the limited space so I drilled it by hand, carefully rotating the drill bit shaft with vice grips while keeping it straight. A little slow, but adequate. Finally re-tapped it with the 1/8" pipe tap as you suggested. New brass nipple went right in and tightened up. We are back in business! You spared me major anguish.

I continue to be so impressed with your knowledge, willingness to share your experience, your patience, the website, your manuals, and so many other aspects of your business. You do others a lot of good and are truly appreciated.

Steve Horlebein

[Don Moyer]

Steve,

Glad to hear things worked out well for you. You deserve a round of applause yourself. You appear to have completed this rather delicate operation with all the finesse of a skilled surgeon.

Don