New Product - Ignition Switch

[Don Moyer]

Key operated, marine grade three-position ignition switch (On - Off - Start). The switch has screw-type connecting terminals, and the mounting stem requires a 13/16" hole.

Click here (http://www.moyermarine.com/cgi-bin/shopper.cgi?preadd=action&key=OVEL_09_404) to add this product to your shopping cart.

[Wilseaya P-31]

Don, my newly acquired '78 Pearson 31 does not have an ignition switch. Previous owner removed it ans wired a spare switch on the panel as an on/off. In the cockpit is a push button starter button.

My question...can I install this switch and use either the push button in cockpit or key switch for starting?

Brian Muller

[Don Moyer]

Brian,

If you're referring to our ignition (keyed) switch - product number Product No. OVEL_09_404 in our online catalog - the answer is yes. This switch is intended to provide both of the functions provided by your separate switches.

Don

[msauntry]

My last switch (on-off) with a separate start button started to shock me on my last ocean crossing, since it was exposed to so much salt water in the cockpit. When I got into port, I found a 4 position C-H switch that I found I could wire my blower into as well.
ACC/IGN/ST/OFF are its positions.

The blower was wired to the ACC so I could just flip the key to vent before starting. When you start the engine, the blower runs as well because ACC is live. This is a feature I love since I don't have to reach down to the DC panel anymore to flip on the blower. Blower amp draw doesn't show on my panel now because its not going through the breaker, but an inline fuse will protect it.

I much prefer this switch to my old setup.

[rigspelt]

I bought one of these sturdy switches and built a new ignition panel this weekend out of tough white 1/4" plastic used in the conveyor built manufacturing industry. The problem is that I cannot get the two nuts on the threaded stem to grip the plastic panel sufficiently to keep the switch from turning (twisting) when the key is turned. This is not a flaw in the part, just a reality of my using semi-slippery plastic instead of making the panel out of something that allows the nuts to grip better. The whole thing is still on my workbench while I assemble it.

I'm going to try a heavier inside nut that makes it easier to lock down the switch with a wrench, but that might break the panel. I'll try SS washers too. When I seal the washers with butyl tape after roughing up the plastic under them, that might provide enough friction. Now I think of it, the stem is so long that there is plenty of room to add a thick wood backing plate. Any other thoughts on how to mount the ignition switch to keep it from twisting?

[tenders]

I would suggest using a punch or a Dremel tool to score a washer so that it bites into the plastic once the nut is tightened down against it. Roughing up the plastic can't hurt either; then, perhaps, some Locktite on final assembly to hold the tightened nut against the washer, which is then mechanically engaged with the plastic?

[jhwelch]

How about 1 or 2 rubber rings cut to fit the stem of your part?
They would supply more of a grip against your plastic surface.

[rigspelt]

I cut a 3/8" thick, 1.5" x 2" oak block and dry-fitted that. Made a huge difference: nice and solid.