gas pouring from intake

[captain kenny]

I bought this e35 a month ago and a learning and working the bugs out of this a4 . I talked with Bill and got the trans adjusted or learned how to shift!? I got it to run but then discovered it would not restart then noticed gas pouring from the intake ahhhhhh. I have the carb apart now cleaning and will bench test with a primer bulb. Could i have too much pressure from the elect pump. Should i invest in a rebuild kit?? The previous owner said he thinks the wrong carb is on the engine could this be possible?? It is an aluminum zenith. What say the A4 gurus??

[Marian Claire]

Is it a facet fuel pump? Do you have a low oil pressure cut off switch? Some thing could be stopping the needle/float valve from seating. Any signs of that? You can, even with a properly functioning needle valve, force gas past with a priming bulb. So be gentle. Dan S/V Marian Claire

[ArtJ]

IF the fuel pouring from the carb is not excessive, it could be normal for a
carburetor of this style to shed some amount of fuel . Don often mentions that it is impossible to flood these carbs due to this.

[sastanley]

Capt K..welcome to the forum!

If you haven't done so already, get Moyer's A-4 manual. It addresses how to adjust the float & how to 'dress' the float valve seating area with a wooden dowel so that it seals properly..this (the manual) will be the single best investment you can make in the engine. I bet if you search the forum you can find information about it too. I was new to A-4's last fall, and I went thru all these things over the winter.

On the very end of the float valve there is a rubber tip..you should be able to see this since you have the carb apart. If this is damaged I think it would possibly let fuel by. If I recall correctly, you have to pull the hinge pin that holds the float to allow the needle valve to fall out for inspection. The manual also explains the proper adjustment for this sub-assembly...but basically, I think you want the float level when the assembly is resting upside down (carb apart)

As you re-assemble the carb, set everything back to 'stock' settings per the manual and go from there. I started with a terrible running engine, but after squirting some MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil) in the cylinders to free up sticky rings/valves, a cleaned carb & good fuel, she runs like a champ now!

[captain kenny]

thanks for the replys, I will get the manual asap. Ths gas was not pouring like a river but enough for alarm. i have now installed a polishing filter in front of the carb and there may be some material in the needle seat area.

[roadnsky]

ck-
First, another welcome to the "gang of opinions"...:p

•Check for that OIL PRESSURE cut-off circuit that Dan mentioned. (It's important)
•Do you have a way to manually shut off the fuel at the fuel tank? (petcock)

Finally, snap some pictures and post them. They really help us 'opinionators' form our opinions. :rolleyes:
(Plus Shawn likes 'em)

[captain kenny]

no more leaky carb and it runs great but smoky from the exhaust especially under load. Ken at mm suggested i run some marvel oil in the gas. I also am learning about the reverse issue and having to hold the thing on

[sastanley]

ck,
there is no "detent" in reverse...it is a brake band style reversing gear, so steady pressure on the handle is required to avoid slippage. Also, the reverse gear is not 1:1, so you will notice considerably more RPM for a given prop RPM. I cruise in forward about 1,800-2,000 RPM, but if I am in hard reverse, the engine may be spinning 2,500-2,700 :eek: - the 'screeching' sound in reverse is also normal. ;)

I run about 1oz. per gallon of MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil) in the fuel tank. What really helped me out as well, was using an oil can and squirting some MMO into the cylinders directly (thru the spark plug hole) whenever I had an extra minute as I was putting the boat away. This loosened up a sticky valve I had in cyl #4, but also can help clean up gunky/sticky rings too, which I suspect Ken thinks may be the cause of the smokey issue you are experiencing.

They sell MMO in gallon sized containers at most Wal-Marts for about $12. :cool:

[ndutton]

Shawn,

Screeching sound in reverse??

[thatch]

Since most A4 addicts understand that the straight cut gears in the reversing mechanism tend to be quite noisy while doing their job I vote that we give Shawn an okay on the "screeching" word. Although I usually hear it described as something like a loud whirring sound, I prefer to think of it as
"extremely audible mechanical music". Bottom line is that as long as it's not clunk, clunk, clunk then it's probably normal.

Tom

[sastanley]

haha...I like "extremely audible mechanical music". :cool:

Since I grew up on the boat from when it was new, I was familiar with the reverse sound...the first time my wife heard it when we acquired the boat last year, she said, "is it supposed to screech like that?", so I guess that is where it comes from. :rolleyes:

It is definitely a tell-tale sign that you have an Atomic4 in your boat when you come to a raft/slip/pier and throw her in reverse! :D

[ndutton]

Shawn,

My apologies to your wife. My reverse sounds like granny low on my dad's old stick shift F-250.

[sastanley]

Yeah...maybe similar to that!

Before we got our own boat, she got spoiled by the 'putt putt putt' sound of the old 5411 in my step-father's Tartan for years & years that had an actual fancy 'transmission' attached to it & sounded the same in fwd or rev. ;)

[Mark S]

I also am learning about the reverse issue and having to hold the thing on

What "thing"? From the "Do-As-I-Say-Not-As-I-Do" Department, it's bad to prevent slippage in reverse by exerting pressure on the shifting lever. Somewhere on the forum, Don says it wears down some bearing that is a pain to remove and replace.

Mark

[thatch]

Mark,
The bearing Don was probably talking about is the small roller in the slotted end of the "brake band adjusting bolt". Since it is realitively small and does such an important job I tend to not lean on the reverse handle any harder than necessary. Thanks to Kaminsky though, if it ever should fail the process of changing it out has gotten much easier.
Tom

[captain kenny]

Has anyone ever done their own routing ot the crankcase tube into the intake. I have seen the neat product from indigo but it seems like we should be able to drill and tap a nipple onto the intake. What say the gurus??

[keelcooler]

Carb flange 35.new cast iron manifold over 500. I would think the flange is the way to go. Your Visa card will never forgive you if you screw up that manifold.