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Will Jacocks
05-02-2011, 08:32 PM
Got the valve spring compressor from MMI, but can the keepers get stuck to the retaining washer that they won't slide apart with the compressor? The spring tool keeps popping out without any pressure on the springs. Is there a trick to this? Tried two different valves and maybe both have stuck keepers. What can you do if the keepers are stuck?

I may just take a dremel and cut the springs, there were three broken springs and I ordered 8 to replace all of them.

Dave Neptune
05-02-2011, 09:10 PM
Will, you can rotate the valve to a point that you see where the two halves of the keepers come together then use a small chisel or sharp scraper and give it a smak upwards against the valve. Use a small hammer and don't strike to hard, start out light and work up to getting them loose.
Place a rag in the oil galleys so you don't loose a keeper down the drain:eek:.
The keepers can get a bit stuck from the dried up goo assorted with the valve train.
Sometimes a spritz with carb cleaner will clean them enough to get them with your fingers.

Dave Neptune:cool:

Bold Rascal
05-02-2011, 09:46 PM
Just accomplished a spring replacement myself and experienced keepers stuck within the retaining washer. It's a real good idea to stuff some paper towel down into the valve chamber drain holes BEFORE you attempt anything in that area of the engine.

After breaking the smaller of the two compressing arms included with the MMI compression tool on the very first valve (very britle) I applied a little PB Blaster to each valves retainer washer section and let it work a little.

Some released easily, On the more stubborn one's (not wanting to risk breaking the remaining compression arm) I leveraged the open end of a combination wrench beneath the retaining washer and a wood spacer on the edge of the engine block and influenced it up.

There's a few very helpful threads in the forum on replacing valve springs. Using a little dab of grease on the inside of the keepers to hold them inplace while you lower the retaining washer works really well. Having someone to help is even better. It's tediuos.

sastanley
05-03-2011, 09:10 AM
Will..go check out rpowers post about this..he just took care of his and relayed his experience on the forum pretty well. Dave Neptune is also the master at this type of stuff and has probably done more valves than all of us put together. :D

sailhog
05-03-2011, 09:54 AM
Will,
I just replaced my springs, and it was a real bear....

Here's what I finally figured out:

You need to keep the top end of the compressor tool DIRECTLY over the valve. As you screw down on the tool, keep each of the forked ends exactly on either side of the retaining washer. I found that it helps if you have the bottom of the retaining washer completely clean, with absolutely no oil on it. This will help keep the tool from sliding around on the bottom of the retaining washer when the spring is fully compressed. Once the keepers are exposed, pry them apart with a dental tool. Mine generally fell out, but a couple were suck on the valve stem.

By the time I was finished, I was completely whipped. In all it took about eight hours. I had to keep reminding myself to chill out. Pretend you're drinking beer -- but don't actually drink while you're doing this or you're likely to ruin an otherwise perfectly good buzz.

Will Jacocks
05-03-2011, 04:56 PM
Got two of the springs out, but broke the spring tool. :eek: Tried lots of things including open end wrench on top of a block of wood using it for leverage, but the keepers are winning! They are really stuck to the retainers...:confused:

Any ideas?

Will Jacocks
05-03-2011, 07:36 PM
Update, The spring compressor tool is only strong enough to compress the springs, not to "break" the seals between the keepers and the retainer washers. I broke the spring tool, but kept working on the issue with the stuck keepers. I looked at RPowers post and found a couple thin strips of good hard wood that I sat one on the ledge of the block, which also was able to set it on the ledge under the valve spring. (on the outside of the valve lifters) slid the other piece of wood with an open end wrench on it, tapped it the rest of the way in with a hammer which forced the valve up about a 1/4" then I tapped on the top of the valve smartly, but carefully to break the keepers loose. Then I pulled the contraption out and was able to use the spring compressor with the remaining good arm to compress the springs and get the keepers and washers out. Phew!!! Now I am going to clean all the keepers, washers and all the old valves of all the carbon and junk. Will clean the valve depressions of old carbon as well as the valves, lap the seats good and install the new valve. Sweet! Now I am back into the reassembly stage!!!:cool:

rpowers
05-03-2011, 09:10 PM
OK,

In order to do this task properly:

1) Note that the Lisle tool is not at exactly 90 degrees.

2) Correct this by inserting a small piece of copper wire or such in the back end.

3) Cut away with a grinder a triangle on the top of the fork to allow for a greater range of movement as you get to the top of the spring.

4) DO NOT use the fork to pry in between the spring and the retainer cap. Use a screwdriver for this. Otherwise the fork tine will SNAP off. They don't bend, they snap. Then you have a tool with one tine. Impossible to work with.

5) Go ahead and order a second tool (Amazon has them) as back up. I was able to grind and adapt a broken small tine onto the intact larger fork, but it still didn't work as well as a new fork on the tool.

Note: Completing this spring change task will make you a Jedi master. You will have gained control over the urge to stand up and SCREAM in frustration!

-Rick