idler gear bushing

[gilbert landin]

I replaced the bushing on the Idle gear, the new one is flush on the backside of the gear, but sticks out a tiny bit on the front side. When I tighten the nut the washer is up against the bushing. I am pretty sure this will wear down the bushing after time and then the gear will be that much looser. I did not notice how loose the nut was originally but now am in a quandary over how much to tighten it. Any suggestions?
PS
The more it is tighten the harder it is to turn the crank.

gilbert

[Don Moyer]

Gilbert,

When this happens in our shop, we take a medium coarse flat file and work the end of the bushing down so that the friction washer fits loose enough for the idler gear to spin freely, even after the 3/4" locknut is tight.

Don

[gilbert landin]

Thanks Don I, hand ground w/ file and finished w/sandpaper and block, it is now flush and happy, I could not find any specs on how tight.

I also could not find any info ( I bought all the moyer manuals) on what to use on the gaskets. I went dry with the heads and used a little grease on the thermostat since I needed to torque down the head. What can be used on the other gaskets?

While torquing down the heads, all the bolts went to 25lbs ok except for the outside lift ring stud. The stud pulled out of the block. aggghhh :eek: I read the procedure in the companion manual so now I have to look at the stud again and decide whether I can use an overside stud.

[Don Moyer]

Gilbert,

Since writing the procedure in our Newsletter Compendium, we developed the 7/16" repair studs (OBLK_06_42 in our online catalog), which are much easier to use than repair bushings, and you can install them without having to remove the head.

I'm attaching our instructions for installing 7/16" repair studs and the recommended gasket sealing.

Don

[gilbert landin]

Thanks Don, This info will be added to the your manuals..

gilbert