PDA

View Full Version : new guy


Ript75
10-25-2011, 07:43 PM
Hello Everyone,

I recently acquired a 74 newport 30 with an A4. Unfortunately due to deferred maintenace and neglect the boat was allowed to accumulate a fair amount of water in her cabin. Needless to say the engine got wet. Up to the point where the starter had water damage. The engine had set up. I sprayed a generous amount of penetrating oil into the cylinders, and after a few days soaking I was able to get the engine to turn. I was dumbstruck to find no oil in the crankcase. I pulled the carb, intake/exhaust manifold, and gained access to the vale train. I was pleasantly surprized to see that it was very clean inside. I manually turned the engine (the starter was inoperative) and saw that the valves were moving. A good sign at that point.
I repaired the starter, filled the oil to dipstick full level, then did a compression test. The results:
cyl 1...0 psi dry...0 psi wet
cyl 2...0 psi dry...90 psi wet
cyl 3...60 psi dry...110 psi wet
cyl 4...110 psi dry...160 psi wet

I settled for pulling the engine for an overhaul. Next day I arrived to begin the extraction and I found that all of the oil...about 2.5 qts... was in the cavity below the engine and in the bilge. Hmmm... rotted oil pan? I haven't done a full assessment of the engine yet.

I set to the task of removing the engine. I have the engine out of it's mounts and in the gangway. I decided to have the marina lift it out of the boat which hopefully will be this week. She is on the hard and that 8-9 foot drop to the ground (at the transom) would have made it a daunting task.

I was informed that the marina had a used A4 that is reported to be in running condition. I was told that they would make a definitive assessment of the condition of the engine.I asked, but they didn't give me a price on the engine. They want to inspect it first.

Okay...finally my quetions. Based on what I have described and going on the assumption that the major components are still good (i.e. the head, block, manifold,etc...) would an overhaul be cost effective? (I see that an oil pan is $200.00). And, what is a reasonable amount to pay for an engine you have no history on, other than to say it runs. No idea if there are any upgrades to this engine...electronic ignition for instance.

Regards,

Jon '74 N30 II #532

Kelly
10-26-2011, 10:13 AM
Hello Jon,

Welcome to the right place to be if you have an Atomic 4.

Did you see this thread (http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5786)? Just thought the link would be good food for thought.

lat 64
10-26-2011, 10:54 AM
Most pros and amateurs that frequent this forum can help you get the thing going. We can even help project, within limits, the cost of most repairs. The thing we can't do is tell you whether it is worth it in your particular case.

It's usually always cheaper to do lots of the assembly and expediting yourself. Conversely, hiring a mechanic to do it all can can start to go over the cost of just ordering a quality remanufactured engine.

You bought a project boat and you seem to know how to mechanic, so I think you are like most of us—You are, shall we say "efficient" with your budget. I think you may get good results and use of your money by rebuilding your engine yourself.

If you want to get out and sail,then get the other motor and plop it in.

Sorry 'bout the philosophy ramblings, but the questions you ask: "Based on ...on the assumption that the major components are still good...would an overhaul be cost effective?"

I say yep.

Cheers and welcome,
Russ

Ps. You will get about seventy-five-cents per hour for your labor on this project. Time=$

Bold Rascal
10-26-2011, 11:38 AM
Most everyone here has a similar experience as you and most have been able to get thier neglected engines running with varying amounts of time and money.

As Russ so neatly stated, Each individual has a different set of values for both (time and money).

In my own case I purchased a used boat with a neglected non running engine and had to pull the head, replace a few valves, new springs, new head gaskets, lap the valves and rebuild the carb. In all I probably spent $400 and about 50 hours of my own labor. The engine, built in 1973 now runs great but I still have a ways to go in adding a new fuel pump, filters and afew other wishlist items. But at least it runs and I can sail.

The great thing about doing your own work is that you learn so much about your engine and it's related systems. All great stuff to know in case you do ever get stuck someplace.

The folks in this forum are awesome as far as help and advise.
Anything under a $1000.00 for a complete and running engine is a good deal but it doesnt include a guarantee that the engine will even last a week.

Moyer Marine can supply almost everything you might need, then there's ebay and craigslist.

Get yourself a copy of the Moyer Marine A-4 manual, Read it and decide for yourself.

Welcome to the forum!

Ript75
10-26-2011, 05:56 PM
Thanks for the replies,

Kelly that is a great deal on an A4. Too far away for me though.

Mike and Russ, I have given thought about my dilemma. If the price is right, then I will go with the engine at the marina. Yet, I want to keep the original engine. I'm a bit of a purist and having the original iron in her is my first choice. So as soon as I can, I will look it over thoroughly. I am a mechanic by trade, so an overhaul is very doable. Honestly, I can't wait to get inside that iron. Patience, what a concept.:p Thanks again guys. Btw, I'll keep you updated, and I'm sure I'll have questions.


Regards,

Jon

Laker
10-26-2011, 06:12 PM
If the mill the yard has to offer looks to be a reasonable deal , plop it in , ready the rest of your new boat for sailing , and go. Then you can take your time in a thorough re-build of the original A-4 & swap the two engines when the time is right.

That's the way I would do it , assuming the cash resources are available.

Best of luck , CJK

jpian0923
10-26-2011, 11:44 PM
If you had a fair amount of water in the cabin, is she sailable now? I mean, you might have plenty of time to rebuild what you have (plus, she's on the hard), and not buy something you aren't sure of. But, if you can get the other engine for cheap, I'd get that one too. Just my opinion...

lat 64
10-28-2011, 12:55 AM
Laker pretty much said it.

I would add that your reg'ler mechanic skills will surely serve you well here, but there are a few quirky assembly notions that need to be understood about the A-4 that most auto mechanics don't always realize. I say this because I worked in a auto machine shop for a few years and was still surprised by the piston placement. The MMI manual describes this well and is as far as I am concerned correct. Read it carefully.
Also get used to the idea of two head gaskets(at the same time!).
Kinda weird I know, but it works!

Ta,
Russ