Exhaust Pipe Wrap

[Bill Fields]

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what to cover the exhaust pipe with to insulate it before the cooling water is added. A marine surveyor indicated that a bare exhaust pipe was a fire hazard. I have been to several auto supply stores to no avail. Thanks Bill Fields S/V La Joie De Vivre

[JAWS11]

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what to cover the exhaust pipe with to insulate it before the cooling water is added. A marine surveyor indicated that a bare exhaust pipe was a fire hazard. I have been to several auto supply stores to no avail. Thanks Bill Fields S/V La Joie De Vivre
GO TO YOUR LOCAL NAPA STORE AND ASK FOR A THERMAL WRAP FOR HEAT COST ABOUT A $1.50 PER FOOT AFTER YOU WRAP IT AND START IT BACK UP IT WILL SMELL LIKE IT IS BURNING BUT THE SMELL ONLY LAST ABOUT THREE MINUTES

[Bill Fields]

Thanks for the tip on the thermal wrap. I will try it. Bill

[dtinder]

After running my engine at the dock yesterday for 8 hrs trying to trace down a
n intermittant shut down problem (Yes I ran the + lead to the coil direct), I discovered the frwd port side of the cockpit was too hot to touch----Hmmmm--never noticed that befor. I'm off to the NAPA store----tks guys for a good post.

Re the shut down problem---when I find the problem Don M will have to add another chapter to the book.

My guess is that I will have to go to the narrowest inlet, on a strong outgoing tide, with 25 kts on the nose to make the darn thing shut down---throw in a few sprotsfishermen that are hooting and hollaring---

[dduelin]

When I needed new insulation for the exhaust I went to a wholesale insulation supplier and purchased a roll of 2" wide fiberglass pipe insulation. The whole roll was $20 and was 50 feet long. For what it is worth I use about 20 feet of insulation on the hot section of the riser and secure it with Monel seizing wire. That's about two layers wrapped tight and overlapping. This stuff had some sort of wax or something on it that caused a heck of a stink and a cloud of smoke in the engine compartment the first use, but after that first use it did not recur.

[dtinder]

Im still fussing with getting the exhaust pipe wrapped--difficulty finding the stuff at the auto stores----we old guys could have easily found a piece of asbestos---but the EPA cops are on duty. I did find some "header wrap" at one of the local gofast shops---but it was 60 ft and twice as many bucks. I thought about buying the roll and sharing it with the rest of the group---better yet----Don--why not get Ken to stock the stuff--we all could use it and it goes in the same box as all that other stuff we rely upon Ken for--you make a couple of bucks---we save a couple of bucks---and hundreds of A-4's are better suited in dealing with a potential problem--like improperly stowed life jackets that come to roost in the wrong spot.
Dave

[emilk2]

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what to cover the exhaust pipe with to insulate it before the cooling water is added. A marine surveyor indicated that a bare exhaust pipe was a fire hazard. I have been to several auto supply stores to no avail. Thanks Bill Fields S/V La Joie De Vivre
I bought mine at the local Brewer yard in Branford Ct. Any good yard should have it

[wasielewski]

Not sure of its insulating qualities but a wonderful product to use in this and other applications on an engine (or any pipe on a boat for that matter) is something called X-Treme Tape. Can be bought through Duluth Trading Co. Phone number 800-505-8888 or by going to their website (http://www.DuluthTrading.com).

[marv33t]

When I needed new insulation for the exhaust I went to a wholesale insulation supplier and purchased a roll of 2" wide fiberglass pipe insulation. The whole roll was $20 and was 50 feet long. For what it is worth I use about 20 feet of insulation on the hot section of the riser and secure it with Monel seizing wire. That's about two layers wrapped tight and overlapping. This stuff had some sort of wax or something on it that caused a heck of a stink and a cloud of smoke in the engine compartment the first use, but after that first use it did not recur.
Auto speed shops are also another source for a good pipe wrap. It is used for header pipe wrap.
Marv

[ericson_35]

Pop open the yellow pages, you'll be surprised what you'll find (insulation, etc.). Especially look/call a local truck repair/parts or diesel shop (Caterpillar, etc.) they usually wrap turbo pipes with the stuff and may have short remnants from rolls that are scraps that they'd be happy to give away a few feet at no cost or a few bucks. Don't forget stove/fireplace shops either. They use it on their hot pipes as well.

I concur with stainless/monel seizing wiring wrapped tightly around the insulation to keep the wrapping in place. After all, insulation in the bilge doesn't do you any good but plug the bilge pump.

John M.

[mike7a10]

I am not sure how good this product is but there is a new product carried by West Marine called Hotshield Fiberglass Tape. Page 362 in the 2005 catalog. Looks like it may work OK. :rolleyes:

[RichardC]

Hello What are the chances that the exhaust wrap on my recently purchased 1970 Grampian 30 is asbestos? It looks original and is starting to come apart in a couple of spots. Richard

[roadnsky]

What are the chances that the exhaust wrap on my recently purchased 1970 Grampian 30 is asbestos?

Chances are VERY high.
My slip neighbor just replaced his original wrap (circa 1971) and it was old asbestos.
Maybe someone else can give you suggestions of how to handle and clean up the mess...:eek:
-Jerry

[Rick_Powers]

Hello Friends,

I needed to replace my exhaust insulation too.

I went to the local hardware store and bought simple fiberglass wrap for pipes.

About 8" wide in a roll.

I wrapped it around the exhaust pipe, then wrapped that with Aluminum foil.

Before applying the aluminum foil, I carefully doubled it over itself to give strength.

Careful binds with large metal hose clamps made for a nice installation for a very minimum of money spent.

Have a great summer of SAILING!

-Rick

[lat 64]

I think that standard pipe insulation with fiberglass is not fire proof.
The resins that bind the fibers do burn. Try putting a match to what ever you use first.
I put some of the hot-rodder header tape on my old ford and it help keep the floor cooler in the hot weather. I remember $30.00 or so :confused:. Hot rodders use this stuff because it keeps the gases hot further down the line and that creates less back pressure—more zoom. We don't need that, but it is designed to withstand high heat. It comes with some little band clamps too.

Exposure from asbestos won't kill you for at least ten years. No worries:eek:

Wrap on,

Russ

[rigspelt]

MMI's exhaust wrap kit was easy to use, with nice instructions although I did learn a couple of tricks. I presume I got it right. It just covered our new hot section (see photo).

[roadnsky]

Rigs-
It looks perfect. (Maybe MMI should post it as a model for the catalog?):p

First couple of hours of running it's gonna give off a light smoking and smell.
I kept mine lightly wetted down a few times while running and it seemed to help it "shrink to fit" as well as help with the smoking.
I still vote that it's the best stuff for the hot section wrapping...

[dvd]

I've never heard anyone having to put exhaust wrap on. I assume you dont need to if you are raw water cooled? Am I missing something because my A-4 doesn't have any.

DVD

[roadnsky]

I've never heard anyone having to put exhaust wrap on. I assume you dont need to if you are raw water cooled? Am I missing something because my A-4 doesn't have any

Hmmm, really? This is the first I've heard of someone NOT putting it on...

The wrap goes around the pipe on the HOT SECTION of your exhaust where it leaves the manifold up to the hose going into your water lift muffler (see photo)
You can certainly not put it on the pipe, but man that pipe's gonna be HOT!:eek:

-Jerry

[MikeB.330]

Now that's Purdy...

[Concord]

JC Whitney has exhaust wrap at a reasonable price. The first link has a lot of options (width and length).

http://www.jcwhitney.com/DEI-EXHAUST-WRAPS/GP_2011145_N_111+10201+600012817_10101.jcw

http://www.jcwhitney.com/INSULATING-WRAP-FOR-HEADERS-AND-EXHAUSTS/GP_2006309_N_111+10201+600012817_10101.jcw

[nreeves]

I was out for my first good run to test everything for the season and I noticed that the the wrap material was smoking slightly. I dropped the load and monitored for a while, but it continued to smoke. Is it possible for this to happen when the material to do this with age? The wrap does not look that old. At first, I thought it could be some moisture on the wrap, but after two 30 minute trips, you would think it would dry out. All temp and oil pressure all look good.

Note: I added a electric fuel puml and a oil temp and pressure switch. Everything seems to be running smooth, but I do like smoking things in my engine compartment. Any ideas?

- do you think it is just the wrap?
- is there any other part of the cooling system that may not be cooling properly to cause this to hest unto this degree?

Thanks!

[roadnsky]

IF the wrap is new it will smoke.
Do you know WHEN it was installed? Condition of your hot section?

Keep the engine compartment well ventilated and the wrap will stop cooking/smoking in about 2-3 engine hours.

[Baltimore Sailor]

Chances are VERY high.
My slip neighbor just replaced his original wrap (circa 1971) and it was old asbestos.
Maybe someone else can give you suggestions of how to handle and clean up the mess...:eek:
-Jerry

My old wrap was probably asbestos. I took it off, threw it in the trash and washed my hands real well.

Asbestos is a naturally occurring mineral. If one worked around it a lot to the point where one could inhale the mineral fibers over a long period of time, you might want to wear a dust mask. But the amount you'll pull off your hot section and the length of time you'll be around it are inconsequential to any health issues. It's not poisonous and it's not radioactive.

[joe_db]

I did delivery work for a law firm suing Baltimore area shipyards for asbestos related illness once as a summer job back in the 80s. It is NASTY stuff, especially if you smoke. Working with asbestos + smoking = :eek:

My old wrap was probably asbestos. I took it off, threw it in the trash and washed my hands real well.

Asbestos is a naturally occurring mineral. If one worked around it a lot to the point where one could inhale the mineral fibers over a long period of time, you might want to wear a dust mask. But the amount you'll pull off your hot section and the length of time you'll be around it are inconsequential to any health issues. It's not poisonous and it's not radioactive.

[ndutton]

The dear wife of a cruising friend was lost to the cancer caused by asbestos a couple of years ago. The belief is she came in contact with it as a result of handling/laundering her husband's contaminated work clothes, a 'secondary smoke' exposure for sure.

[Baltimore Sailor]

I did delivery work for a law firm suing Baltimore area shipyards for asbestos related illness once as a summer job back in the 80s. It is NASTY stuff, especially if you smoke. Working with asbestos + smoking = :eek:

Yes, but "working with asbestos" does not equal "taking 10 feet of asbestos wrap off your hot section once in your life."

You don't need special clean-up procedures if you're working on your boat. Just bag it and trash it.

[Baltimore Sailor]

The dear wife of a cruising friend was lost to the cancer caused by asbestos a couple of years ago. The belief is she came in contact with it as a result of handling/laundering her husband's contaminated work clothes, a 'secondary smoke' exposure for sure.

But that's not the same as a one-time removal of a few feet of asbestos wrap out of your boat. Let's not confuse a one-time exposure to something with a career of working around it.

[ndutton]

I didn't mean to equate the two. What will minimize any exposure though is to wet the wrap before handling it. The moisture keeps the fibers from becoming airborne. A decent respirator would be prudent too. A particle mask is better than nothing.

It's true that repeated exposure greatly increases the risk as does a lifetime of smoking. Further, I understand that asbestos comes in a wide range of microscopic fiber lengths and only one particular length is known to cause the problem. And different people have different susceptibilities. (Whew, six syllables!) There's also about a 20 year latency period before health problems emerge.

Why would I be interested in such things? My tenure in the boatbuilding industry included working with open sacks of powdered asbestos. Every physical exam includes a chest X-ray for this reason. My last exposure was 39 years ago so it looks like I beat the grim reaper. I have lost work friends from those days to it though. Last one I knew of was in 1992, fitting the 20 year model.

[ILikeRust]

But that's not the same as a one-time removal of a few feet of asbestos wrap out of your boat. Let's not confuse a one-time exposure to something with a career of working around it.


Quite likely not a "one-time" exposure. By pulling off that wrap, unless you used wet methods (e.g., a glove bag and surfactant), you quite likely caused a fiber release. The pipe wrap is gone, but asbestos fibers quite likely remain behind.

Although the well-known studies regarding asbestos exposure and rates of asbestosis and mesothelioma were based on shipyard workers and boilermakers exposed to the stuff for decades, there is a theory that all it takes is a single fiber.

I agree that a one-time removal of 10 feet of pipe wrap is very different from working with raw asbestos for 30 years, but I also would not downplay its hazards. Nor would I simply rip the pipe wrap off and toss it in a trash bag. If the insulation is in good condition, tearing it off in that manner almost certainly will make the situation much worse and actually create an asbestos exposure where there wasn't one before.

Make a solution of dish liquid and water, spray it down well to keep it wet, wear a HEPA filter respirator, and put it directly into heavy plastic bags (6 mil preferred).

Yeah, it's not kryptonite - but it's also not totally harmless and I would not fool around with it lightly.

[jacques debauche]

I'm surprised at the angst about finding appropriate insulation for exhaust hot sections. MMI sells just the thing - give Don and Brenda some business in appreciation for their services to us Afourians.

I used the MMI woven glass tape on our Tartan 30 exhaust which runs within two inches of the plywood mid-ship bulkhead for about 18 inches (as well as within inches of most of the important electrical wiring on the boat). Being a "belt-and-suspenders" engineer, I used two layer of the wrap, and the resulting surface temperature is low enough that the tape can be touched (briefly) during operation. If you get the MMI product, discard the supplied clamps which are worse than useless: use SS worm clamps instead. The insulation will smoke for the first few hours, but not to worry.

An alternative for the very wary is molded magnesite insulation which comes as two half-cylinders which are clamped around the metal pipe. If you want to go that route (and I don't know why you would want to unless you had an installation where the hot section runs very close to a flammable surface), a few minutes on Google will find you a local supplier.

Any glass wool insulating product is something I would keep as far from my A4as possible, preferably not on the boat at all. It's not good for machinery, it's not good for skin, and it's not good for the lungs.

The advice that we have already heard on asbestos is good. Asbestos, particularly long-fibered white asbestos as was most common in North American insulation products, is innocuous unless you snort the dry dust into your lungs. Keep it wet, and it won't fly around. It's not poisonous, nor is it carcinogenic in the chemical sense. However, those tiny fibers (blue asbestos is tinier, hence worse) stick in the lungs and cause irritation which can become cancerous, particlarly when chemical carcinogins (e.g. tobacco tars) are present. This mechanism may also apply to finer-fibered grades of glass wool.