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  #26   IP: 73.28.211.141
Old 05-23-2017, 08:47 PM
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romantic comedy romantic comedy is offline
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Ken, might you have an outboard around?

Keep checking the engine and maybe get it going. But you might be better off bolting an outboard to the old girl. I hate to say this since I love this engine.

You are in the realm of having a 2500 dollar sailboat that you want to sail cheaply. Do you have sailing experience? Is this your first foray into sailing. This topic comes up frequently on FB but not here.

I would recommend to get on the water as cheaply (and safely) as possible. I have seen quite a few inboard boats with egg beaters bolted on the back. Have a fun summer then decide what you want to do.

A 2500 dollar boat is basically a free boat. To get it sea worthy and in good sailing condition may take more then twice what you paid for the boat. Possibly that is a worth while investment. Maybe not.

My Tartan 34 is hauled at a yard where 2500 dollar boats are the norm. The owners of these boats have very little money for upkeep and repair. They had the 2 to 5 thousand for the boat and that was it. There was no money for sails, engine repair etc...

I often see guys wanting advice about a free boat they are considering. most times a free boat is the most expensive boat. Most of us spend more the 2500 a year on dockage and hauling.

I hope this did not sound harsh or judgemental.
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  #27   IP: 96.244.11.68
Old 05-23-2017, 09:02 PM
sdemore sdemore is offline
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FWIW, I'm doing the same thing. I picked up a "free" boat and an rebuilding it myself. The goal is to see how cheaply it can be done, with the realistic view that you have to have a pot of expendable money to do those things that just have to be done.
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  #28   IP: 174.194.133.216
Old 05-24-2017, 09:00 AM
rockhopper rockhopper is online now
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I can't honestly remember seeing the water line on the flywheel. I remember seeing some rust by the bottom teeth and thinking this isn't good. That was one picture I didn't think to snap. I am just going to have the yard pull the engine, I don't feel comfortable hooking 300 lbs onto the boom and praying that nothing breaks. Hopefully they'll get it pulled and I'll be picking it up this weekend.

Here is another shot I got of the alternator, looks like a jack leg played with it. You can see another broken/rusted into hose clamp here.

I got off into sailing last year, picked up a Hobie 16 after taking some sailing lessons. So I'm still fairly new to it and am still learning.
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  #29   IP: 98.171.161.182
Old 05-24-2017, 10:58 AM
JOHN COOKSON JOHN COOKSON is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by romantic comedy View Post
Ken, might you have an outboard around?
Keep checking the engine and maybe get it going. But you might be better off bolting an outboard to the old girl. I hate to say this since I love this engine.
You are in the realm of having a 2500 dollar sailboat that you want to sail cheaply. Do you have sailing experience? Is this your first foray into sailing. This topic comes up frequently on FB but not here.
I would recommend to get on the water as cheaply (and safely) as possible. I have seen quite a few inboard boats with egg beaters bolted on the back. Have a fun summer then decide what you want to do.
A 2500 dollar boat is basically a free boat. To get it sea worthy and in good sailing condition may take more then twice what you paid for the boat. Possibly that is a worth while investment. Maybe not.
My Tartan 34 is hauled at a yard where 2500 dollar boats are the norm. The owners of these boats have very little money for upkeep and repair. They had the 2 to 5 thousand for the boat and that was it. There was no money for sails, engine repair etc...
I often see guys wanting advice about a free boat they are considering. most times a free boat is the most expensive boat. Most of us spend more the 2500 a year on dockage and hauling.
I hope this did not sound harsh or judgemental.
There is a lot of wisdom in the above quote.
Do you want to spend the summer, the prime sailing time in most places, and go sailing now?
Pull the engine now and go sailing. You can work on the engine at your leisure or during the winter.
A couple of thoughts:
Projects like this often take on a life of their own and rarely go as planned.
You will never see the money you put into the engine\boat again. Often referred to as a sunk cost. At our level boats are a hobby, not a business.
A BOAT IS A HOLE IN THE WATER INTO WHICH ONE POURS MONEY

TRUE GRIT

Last edited by JOHN COOKSON; 05-24-2017 at 11:04 AM.
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  #30   IP: 71.71.116.117
Old 05-28-2017, 02:01 PM
rockhopper rockhopper is online now
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Just got the engine home a while ago and tore into the transmission. The oil in here appears to be a milk chocolate color but nothing inside the transmission appears to be rusted. Drained the oil and found there was some chunky white crap in the oil.
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Last edited by rockhopper; 05-28-2017 at 09:07 PM.
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  #31   IP: 73.28.211.141
Old 05-28-2017, 09:19 PM
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that white milkshake stuff is water in the oil....
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  #32   IP: 97.32.4.97
Old 05-29-2017, 04:34 PM
Ken Rockwell Ken Rockwell is offline
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Fill the cylinders with penetrating oil, put the transmission in forward, and get a pipe wrench on the drive shaft coupling. I think you'll get it started, I'm just worried about the rod and main bearings.
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  #33   IP: 71.71.116.117
Old 05-29-2017, 06:07 PM
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From what I can see the internal gears look really great. I have Evapo-rust sitting in the piston cylinders. I'm some what concerned about trying to remove the block from the oil pan due to the rust/corrosion on the side of the engine the starter is on. Also I bench tested my Delco starter, the pinion gear comes out but does not spin.
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  #34   IP: 97.32.14.132
Old 05-29-2017, 07:32 PM
Ken Rockwell Ken Rockwell is offline
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the starter might work if you break it free with a wrench. You definitely need to hone the cylinders. The oil pan bolts are pretty bad but you can easily heat the threads from the top. You could also grind the heads off, then separate the oil pan and grab what's left of the shank with a pipe wrench.
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  #35   IP: 68.228.139.91
Old 05-30-2017, 07:43 AM
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Haven't seen this asked or addressed yet: Do you have the Moyer Manual? Gotta get it if you don't.
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  #36   IP: 68.228.139.91
Old 05-30-2017, 07:44 AM
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P.S. - based on my experience hauling and rebuilding my engine, and reading the stories of several other A4 owners (I'm looking at you, Dave Neptune), I'd say that engine is most likely saveable.
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  #37   IP: 174.194.13.164
Old 05-30-2017, 08:01 AM
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Yep, done had my hands on the service and overhaul manual. That was the first thing I got when I realized I was going to have to yank the engine.
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  #38   IP: 174.194.28.21
Old 05-31-2017, 08:20 AM
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Well I got the reversing gear pulled out and all but one bolt out of the starter side of the oil pan. Going to have to grind the head off due to the restricted space between the bolt and the oil pan flange, my channel locks just won't grab enough to pull it loose even after heating it to a nice cherry red. Going to try my best to get the block and oil pan separated when I get off work today.
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  #39   IP: 174.194.26.175
Old 06-01-2017, 11:24 AM
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Well I got everything tore down last night. The pistons knocked out of the cylinders easy with a piece of 2x4 and a 3lb sledge. Here is a link to the entire photo collection of anyone wants to see them. https://goo.gl/photos/JsGTUpy2tZVA1F419
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Last edited by rockhopper; 06-01-2017 at 11:37 AM.
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  #40   IP: 97.32.16.59
Old 06-01-2017, 02:05 PM
Ken Rockwell Ken Rockwell is offline
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Nice job. Have you ever seated valves with a cordless drill?
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  #41   IP: 174.194.26.175
Old 06-01-2017, 02:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Rockwell View Post
Nice job. Have you ever seated valves with a cordless drill?
No, the Mercedes I replaced a head gasket on I seated them by hand I believe. Had a suction cup tool(forgot it's technical name) and valve grinding compound.
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  #42   IP: 97.32.16.59
Old 06-01-2017, 03:18 PM
Ken Rockwell Ken Rockwell is offline
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First remove the lifters then slide the cam out. Get a drill with a screw bit. Also a rubber hose and two hose clamps. Hose clamp one end to the valve stem the other to the drill bit. I'm not sure if the rubber hose will fit through the lifter holes. Twenty seconds between checks.
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  #43   IP: 99.30.185.198
Old 06-01-2017, 07:43 PM
thatch thatch is offline
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"The Moyer Manual"

RockHopper, In this era of "fake news", the best advice I can give you would be to stick to the Moyer Manual regarding your rebuild.
Tom
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  #44   IP: 73.177.131.145
Old 06-02-2017, 12:18 PM
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I'm with Thatch. The ol' dop stick and valve compound works fine.
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  #45   IP: 208.93.186.137
Old 06-03-2017, 10:56 AM
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Have you found any cracks from freeze damage?
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  #46   IP: 71.71.116.117
Old 06-04-2017, 03:13 PM
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Question Evaluation of rust damage

So far I've found no cracks in any of the engine. I've started getting things some what cleaned up trying to access the damage the rust has done. The camshaft lobes have some rust damage to them, the valve tappets, I'm concerned about the water jacket side of the engine. Will I be able to get this to seal or can it be cleaned up/fixed? The pistons appear to have some nasty crap on the sidewalls of them(is it corrosion) even after scrubbing them? https://goo.gl/photos/JsGTUpy2tZVA1F419
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Last edited by rockhopper; 06-04-2017 at 07:31 PM.
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  #47   IP: 174.194.26.88
Old 06-05-2017, 11:16 AM
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Unhappy Time to move on...

Well it appears it's time to move on from this motor. Perhaps something on it is still good but with all the issues Ken Seigh has recommended me to find a motor in better condition.

Some of the valve tappets are pitted with rust on the top and sides, the camshaft has rust spots on some of the lobes, some of the valves are nasty corroded and rusted.

Is anyone else having issues pulling up the Classified Ad section with the Engine and Engine parts for sale? It says there are 304 threads in there but when I open it all I see is the one labeled "fresh water, fresh water cooling New Moyer Fresh Water Cooling System Kit for A4 - never used by jblumhorst".
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  #48   IP: 98.171.161.182
Old 06-05-2017, 11:48 AM
JOHN COOKSON JOHN COOKSON is online now
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Try:
Sort by:Thread title
Sort order: Descending
From the: Beginning
Show threads
You should see all of the threads.
I also saw a "want to buy" classification. Maybe post in that classification.

If Ken has said it is time to abandon the present engine then that is the final word. You are wise to follow his advice.

You are ahead of the game. You have the mechanical skills necessary to take this project on. Enjoy the ride.

TRUE GRIT

A BOAT IS A HOLE IN THE WATER INTO WHICH ONE THROWS MONEY
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  #49   IP: 174.193.161.175
Old 06-05-2017, 11:56 AM
rockhopper rockhopper is online now
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That's what it was, the "From the:" was defaulted to the last month for some reason.
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  #50   IP: 73.177.131.145
Old 06-07-2017, 04:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rockhopper View Post
Well it appears it's time to move on from this motor. Perhaps something on it is still good but with all the issues Ken Seigh has recommended me to find a motor in better condition.

Some of the valve tappets are pitted with rust on the top and sides, the camshaft has rust spots on some of the lobes, some of the valves are nasty corroded and rusted.
Well maybe you can at least recover some usable parts and pieces, to have as spares for your next engine.... or sell them off to help offset the cost of the new one...?
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