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  #26   IP: 71.3.151.127
Old 08-19-2017, 09:07 PM
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Is there an agreement as to the timing settings?
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  #27   IP: 172.58.140.199
Old 08-20-2017, 07:20 AM
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The specs I have (Robert Hess) are 0 degrees BTDC at idle and 17 degrees BTDC at 1800 RPM.
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  #28   IP: 71.178.80.168
Old 08-20-2017, 08:40 PM
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So, I did a short haul and went cruising. I am not quite getting 2,500 RPM like Neil ( we are running different props), but I am getting 2,250 to 2,300 RPM with the 10 x 7.4 (I think first generation) "winglet" Indigo prop. Ran for several hours today at 2,000 RPM at 5.6 knots at 170°F. 10° degrees cooler than before, and she seemed really happy today and was never struggling.

Still need to confirm RPM with my phototach, and maybe I'll pull out the timing light sometime soon...I was just too busy cruising to do that this weekend, and totally pleased with the performance.

edit - RC, as Neil noted, I have set my boat at 0°BTDC (at 1,000 RPM) and then ran her up on the dock lines which I could muster 1,900 RPM and the timing light measured it at 17° BTDC.
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  #29   IP: 172.56.21.248
Old 08-20-2017, 09:07 PM
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Shawn, our props are the same diameter and pitch. The differences are 2 blade (mine) vs. 3 blade (yours) and you have the winglets. Maybe that accounts for the differences.
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  #30   IP: 71.178.80.168
Old 08-20-2017, 09:25 PM
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Neil, since we are getting technical in this thread, I wanted to make sure we are making notations of all the differences and anomalies. In this case my 3 blade Indigo vs. other props in this experiment like your 2-blade. I don't know how to compare the performance differences yet, but I figured they were worth mentioning.
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  #31   IP: 71.3.151.127
Old 08-20-2017, 11:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ndutton View Post
The specs I have (Robert Hess) are 0 degrees BTDC at idle and 17 degrees BTDC at 1800 RPM.
Thanks Neil and Shawn. That is what I have been using. I do remember Don mentioning the timing under power.
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  #32   IP: 172.58.140.72
Old 08-21-2017, 09:25 AM
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We felt Universal's timing instruction left a lot of room for imprecision so we wanted to see how our boats measured up (not so good in my case) and how much difference being exactly on spec made. In my opinion even the factory's roll pin mark isn't that easy to use precisely.
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  #33   IP: 71.178.80.168
Old 08-21-2017, 05:18 PM
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I know that all members on this forum are always in different 'phases' of working on their motors, but face it..with the last ones made about 1980, we are ALL working on our motors to keep them running.

Being in a phase to do this kind of stuff is FUN! It felt great to cruise for 2.5 hours yesterday with everything running and sounding great.

I will have to redo this entire exercise again when I replace the accessory drive, which is on my radar right as one of the next issues I need to address.
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  #34   IP: 72.194.218.136
Old 08-22-2017, 12:36 AM
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Well, I went down to the boat today. Marking the accessory drive pulley won't work for me because of poor\no access.
I went for "Plan B" and marked the roll pin and hooked up the timing light. With the engine warmed up at idle the mark was 1 to 2 degrees to the right of the timing mark in the flywheel cover. This means the timing is very slightly retarded?
It's been going round and round in my head which way to turn the distributor to bring the timing to TDC. Can't figure out. Help.
Rotating the distributor a micro smidgen in the correct direction should bring the timing to TDC. There is no way I can read the timing light and rotate the distributor at the same time like I would like to do.
Then again maybe I should just leave it alone?

TRUE GRIT
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  #35   IP: 172.58.139.99
Old 08-22-2017, 06:45 AM
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Your timing light indicates you're slightly advanced so you'll need to rotate the distributor body clockwise to correct. You also might consider Tom's window in the flywheel cover to establish a mark on the flywheel perimeter. I don't have the dimensions right now but I estimate it will provide about 8x more accuracy than the roll pin.
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  #36   IP: 72.194.218.136
Old 08-22-2017, 11:42 PM
JOHN COOKSON JOHN COOKSON is online now
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Thanks Neil.
The plan is to get the timing as good as I can by myself. Then the next time my brother in law comes to town I will have him help me get the timing set exact. One of us can read the timing light and the other twists the distributor. In the mean while I'll explore the modification to the flywheel cover that Thatch mentioned.
Once I get this squared away I want to make sure I'm getting the full 17 degrees advance. Seems like a good way to monitor the advance.

TRUE GRIT
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  #37   IP: 206.125.176.3
Old Yesterday, 11:30 AM
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John, does your timing light have an advance dial on it? That is the easy way..or someone better at math than me can calculate what 17° is on the accessory drive for a 2nd mark.

I know that those of us with good side access to the motor are at an advantage, but maybe there is a way to clamp a pointer to the alternator arm or something and put a mark on the front face of the accessory drive.

A middle school science project method could be to use a protractor and make a mark on the flywheel cover, but of course this won't be very precise. - I'd use Thatch's tips/techniques here that Neil mentioned.
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Not Spring anymore!!

http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/signaturepics/sigpic3231_6.gif
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  #38   IP: 72.194.218.136
Old Today, 12:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sastanley View Post
John, does your timing light have an advance dial on it? That is the easy way..or someone better at math than me can calculate what 17° is on the accessory drive for a 2nd mark.

I know that those of us with good side access to the motor are at an advantage, but maybe there is a way to clamp a pointer to the alternator arm or something and put a mark on the front face of the accessory drive.

A middle school science project method could be to use a protractor and make a mark on the flywheel cover, but of course this won't be very precise. - I'd use Thatch's tips/techniques here that Neil mentioned.
Thanks Shawn.
No advance dial on the timing light. (Rats)
I'll have a look see about putting a mark on the front of the accessory drive pulley and a pointer on the alternator arm. As I recall even if I could use the accessory drive pulley I couldn't get the timing light near enough or at the correct angle to read it.
Marking the advance using a protractor on the flywheel cover may not be the most precise method but should be better than nothing.
This project is still in the development phase. I haven't made any hard decisions yet.

TRUE GRIT
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