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  #26   IP: 208.54.35.159
Old 11-13-2017, 03:05 PM
dwkfym dwkfym is offline
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I think I'm going to get a new ignition switch and rewire as it is in he a4 diagram supplied earlier on this thread. I've never shopped for an ignition switch before. What specifications should I be looking at? Will the ign switch referenced in that diagram eliminate my starter button that is located next to my choke and throttle levers?

Last edited by dwkfym; 11-13-2017 at 03:19 PM.
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  #27   IP: 107.77.70.28
Old 11-13-2017, 04:03 PM
tenders tenders is offline
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I have a four-position ignition switch that I like a lot, I think it’s a Cole-Hersee brand.

Vertical key: everything is off

Key one click to the left (counterclockwise): accessory on, but in my installation that’s wired to the bilge blower only. Turn it this way when you get onto the boat, and leave it while you get things set up to get underway.

Key one click to the right from vertical (clockwise): “run” mode = ignition on, but ALSO bilge blower.

Key one more click to the right from vertical: “crank” (start) mode = key returns to “run” mode when let go.

Benefits:
- simplicity: no separate blower switch, or breaker on the electrical panel, any more. (There is an inline fuse). No separate ignition button either
- safety: engine cannot be run without the bilge blower being on
- idiocy reduction: ignition cannot be left on inadvertently without the bilge blower being on

Last edited by tenders; 11-13-2017 at 05:57 PM.
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  #28   IP: 73.173.165.224
Old 11-13-2017, 04:38 PM
dwkfym dwkfym is offline
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Thank you. That sounds like I have to reroute choke controls since I can't start the engine from the cockpit. How do you have your boat set up for that?
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  #29   IP: 107.77.70.28
Old 11-13-2017, 06:02 PM
tenders tenders is offline
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Not sure you’d need to reroute anything as you probably have an ignition switch in place already. On my installation, there’s a little cupboard built into the cockpit at shin level, right next to the shifter, that houses the choke, ignition, former bilge blower switch, and other gauges. Pretty standard, I think. When I upgraded the ignition switch to the four-position model, I removed the blower switch and replaced it with a fuel gauge. This was a big upgrade over the wooden dipstick that existed for the boat’s first 42 years!

(You can’t start the engine from the cockpit? Where do you start the engine from? You have to leave the helm?)
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  #30   IP: 24.152.132.65
Old 11-13-2017, 11:23 PM
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I'm truly sorry but without an accurate drawing that shows everything I can't offer anything constructive.
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1977 Catalina 30
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prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22
Had my hands in a few others
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  #31   IP: 72.194.223.97
Old 11-14-2017, 01:22 AM
JOHN COOKSON JOHN COOKSON is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwkfym View Post
Iign switch referenced in that diagram eliminate my starter button that is located next to my choke and throttle levers?
In post 28 you say you need to reroute the choke control because you can't start the engine from the cockpit.
Where are the starter button, choke, and throttle levers located?

TRUE GRIT
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  #32   IP: 137.200.32.22
Old 11-14-2017, 09:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ndutton View Post
I'm truly sorry but without an accurate drawing that shows everything I can't offer anything constructive.
On that note, I think it is too soon to be buying new parts. The system as shown can't possibly work.
Let's start with the basics. How much of this circuit can you find on your boat:
(note this is a basic diagram. some boats have 1-2-All battery switches and some boats have a combination ignition and start switch)
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Last edited by joe_db; 11-14-2017 at 10:29 AM.
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  #33   IP: 172.56.35.212
Old 11-14-2017, 12:23 PM
dwkfym dwkfym is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tenders View Post
Not sure you’d need to reroute anything as you probably have an ignition switch in place already. On my installation, there’s a little cupboard built into the cockpit at shin level, right next to the shifter, that houses the choke, ignition, former bilge blower switch, and other gauges. Pretty standard, I think. When I upgraded the ignition switch to the four-position model, I removed the blower switch and replaced it with a fuel gauge. This was a big upgrade over the wooden dipstick that existed for the boat’s first 42 years!

(You can’t start the engine from the cockpit? Where do you start the engine from? You have to leave the helm?)
The controls, choke and the starter button is in the cockpit. Isn't a modern four position switch a starter button itself? The four pos switch would be installed in the cockpit, correct?
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  #34   IP: 50.101.241.60
Old 11-14-2017, 08:07 PM
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I removed the original key switch and push button start with a 4 position key switch in the same position as the original key switch as the posts on both are the same size.

Name:  Inst panel2.jpg
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The small shiny button to the left of the key switch is where the push button start was.
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  #35   IP: 73.173.165.224
Old Yesterday, 09:39 PM
dwkfym dwkfym is offline
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Update: Rewired everything and simplified wiring so that it tracks the diagram posted here (with the 50A fuse between alt. and starter). It cranked over right away.

However, I'm not getting any spark, not that I can visually see. The tester lights up at the plug, as well as the coil (at where the distributor would be). Engine isn't starting.

The lower half of the distributor was never loosened so it shouldn't have moved. I don't think its a timing issue. I do have a new rotor, points and cap.

Where should I start troubleshooting?

I also want to wire up the starter button at the cockpit to work without having to turn the ignition key from the cabin, as my engine controls are located there. Would I able to wire it so that I can start the engine from both cabin and cockpit?
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  #36   IP: 72.69.36.126
Old Yesterday, 11:01 PM
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Some ideas...

The miswiring could have burned out the coil; this seems like a strong possibility to me (and/or the condenser perhaps?).

You could have installed the spark plug wires incorrectly, ie put them onto the new cap in the wrong order. Triple check 1-2-4-3, with 1 at the right position. (I had this problem once, drove me nuts for days.)

Does each plug spark if you crank the engine with the plug out, grounded to the block, but connected to the ignition wire?

Check that the rotor properly is pressed down on the distributor shaft, cap mounted squarely and tightened down.
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  #37   IP: 72.194.217.50
Old Today, 01:25 AM
JOHN COOKSON JOHN COOKSON is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwkfym View Post
However, I'm not getting any spark, not that I can visually see.
The lower half of the distributor was never loosened so it shouldn't have moved. I do have a new rotor, points and cap.
t?
Pull the big wire out of the center of the distributor, hold it near the engine, and crank the engine. If you don't see a spark the problem is before the distributor. If you see a spark the problem is after the coil.

Electrically it would easy to remote start the engine. But: how would you set up dual control of the choke?

TRUE GRIT

Edit: Are you keeping the raw cooling water valve closed when you no start crank? Do the spark plugs smell of unburned fuel after you no start crank?

Last edited by JOHN COOKSON; Today at 01:52 AM.
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