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View Poll Results: What is the steady state temperature of your engine?
120 degrees or below 12 6.56%
130 degrees 11 6.01%
140 degrees 31 16.94%
150 degrees 14 7.65%
160 degrees 55 30.05%
170 degrees 29 15.85%
180 degrees or higher 31 16.94%
Voters: 183. You may not vote on this poll

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  #76   IP: 173.48.103.104
Old 04-02-2015, 08:12 PM
hanleyclifford hanleyclifford is offline
 
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Talking

I see the cast street plumber's fitting at the back of the manifold. I recommend you do likewise at the thermostat intake and the fitting at the front of the manifold. Reversing the hoses on the manifold (The Thatch Modification) would complete the upgrade.
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  #77   IP: 174.62.214.116
Old 04-02-2015, 11:16 PM
Vermonstah Vermonstah is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hanleyclifford View Post
I see the cast street plumber's fitting at the back of the manifold. I recommend you do likewise at the thermostat intake and the fitting at the front of the manifold. Reversing the hoses on the manifold (The Thatch Modification) would complete the upgrade.
what is a "cast street plumber's fitting" and where can I find one? Does MMI carry this? if so, then I missed it in the catalog

i have seen this referenced in other threads, also by Hanley I believe, but i dont know what it is, other than preferable to a squared off fitting where debris can collect at the back of the manifold. i have already been burned by this and would like to take all preventive measures to avoid such a recurrence.
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  #78   IP: 72.194.218.25
Old 04-03-2015, 12:18 AM
JOHN COOKSON JOHN COOKSON is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vermonstah View Post
i have seen this referenced in other threads, also by Hanley I believe, but i dont know what it is, other than preferable to a squared off fitting where debris can collect at the back of the manifold. i have already been burned by this and would like to take all preventive measures to avoid such a recurrence.
I went with a straight barb on the manifold outlet. No more problems with KRAP plugging up a curved fitting. By the look of the pictures you might have room to do the same.
FWIW.

TRUE GRIT
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  #79   IP: 154.20.234.21
Old 04-03-2015, 12:28 AM
Van_Isle Van_Isle is offline
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I think the pics you refer to are of my engine.
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  #80   IP: 38.99.137.131
Old 04-03-2015, 06:57 AM
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engine temperature

Mine runs right around 160.
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  #81   IP: 24.249.30.108
Old 04-03-2015, 07:48 AM
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External Thermostat housing on exchange engine

Hi,

I ran my new Moyer exchange engine at 180 degrees by using the Indigo external Thermostat housing and 180 degree thermostat. I installed a fresh water cooling kit with the new engine as well and she ran nicely 180.

Here is a photo of the engine with it installed. I circled the housing

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  #82   IP: 173.48.103.104
Old 04-14-2015, 07:43 AM
hanleyclifford hanleyclifford is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sloopdogg View Post
Hi,

I ran my new Moyer exchange engine at 180 degrees by using the Indigo external Thermostat housing and 180 degree thermostat. I installed a fresh water cooling kit with the new engine as well and she ran nicely 180.

Here is a photo of the engine with it installed. I circled the housing

Very nice installation and that alternator is an object of lust.
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  #83   IP: 24.249.30.108
Old 04-14-2015, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by hanleyclifford View Post
Very nice installation and that alternator is an object of lust.
Ya know, here's the funny thing. The PO installed that sweet charging system but, allowed the raw water pump to leak salt water all over the back of the engine, rendering it useless... There were a few things like that...

I actually sold that boat last fall and I'm "looking" for another, bigger hole in the water... LOL

Danny
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  #84   IP: 71.179.226.138
Old 04-04-2017, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by ndutton View Post
For RWC engines, beyond about 160°F salt begins to leach out of solution clogging the cooling passages. I've seen manufactured RWC mixing elbows (exhaust) completely closed off with salt. The engine prefers a higher operating temperature like 180 - 190° but in the case of RWC the cooling medium can't tolerate it.
Since adding the Temp and Oil pressure warning system, I seem to be running cooler. At fast idle around 130 and at cruise just under 140. I used to run around 170. I'm guessing there is some resistance in the temp sender wire that I perhaps exacerbated while putting the Tee fitting in the block for the alarm and sender. I'll be checking that this weekend but it got me to thinking, is there any downside to running a bit cooler?
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  #85   IP: 72.194.218.130
Old 04-04-2017, 10:52 AM
JOHN COOKSON JOHN COOKSON is online now
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To check the sending unit wiring for resistance: Disconnect the wire at the sending unit and the gauge. Run a jumper wire from one end of the wire with the other end near the other end of the sending unit wire. Measure the resistance. It S\B zero ohms.
To check the sending unit for grounding: One ohm meter probe on the body of the sending unit and one probe on battery ground. Use a jumper wire from battery ground to the vicinity of the sending unit if necessary.

TRUE GRIT

Last edited by JOHN COOKSON; 04-04-2017 at 01:06 PM.
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Oldlaxer1 (04-04-2017)
  #86   IP: 71.179.226.138
Old 04-04-2017, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JOHN COOKSON View Post
To check the sending unit wiring for resistance: Disconnect the wire at the sending unit and the gauge. Run a jumper wire from one end of the wire with the other end near the other end of the sending unit wire. Measure the resistance. It S\B zero ohms.
To check the sending unit for grounding: One ohm meter probe on the body of the sending unit and one probe on battery ground. Use s jumper wire from battery ground to the vicinity of the sending unit if necessary.

TRUE GRIT
Hmm, now I'm wondering if perhaps I used the dreaded conductivity killer teflon tape when screwing the Tee back into the block. I can't recall and can't find a picture of my work. Oh well, just another excuse to spend the day at the boat this weekend!

update, I did find a picture and see no evidence of teflon tape.
Thanks John
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Last edited by Oldlaxer1; 04-04-2017 at 11:58 AM. Reason: update
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  #87   IP: 63.245.126.154
Old 04-04-2017, 02:19 PM
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Teflon tape will not affect the conductivity of the fitting. When the fitting is tightened, it cuts the tape into little spiral strips where the thread faces touch. These strips are then packed down onto the thread valleys, sealing them off. But the thread faces of the fitting and the substrate are in hard metal-to-metal contact. You can see this when you undo a taped fitting and the tape has been reduced to strings.
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  #88   IP: 70.199.141.221
Old 04-04-2017, 06:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sloopdogg View Post
Hi,

I ran my new Moyer exchange engine at 180 degrees by using the Indigo external Thermostat housing and 180 degree thermostat. I installed a fresh water cooling kit with the new engine as well and she ran nicely 180.

Here is a photo of the engine with it installed. I circled the housing

I am going to run mine on sea water this season, and if the motor and the boat will perform to my satisfaction then I think will be smart to go with water cooling kit
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  #89   IP: 24.152.132.65
Old 04-04-2017, 07:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldlaxer1 View Post
Since adding the Temp and Oil pressure warning system, I seem to be running cooler. At fast idle around 130 and at cruise just under 140. I used to run around 170. I'm guessing there is some resistance in the temp sender wire that I perhaps exacerbated while putting the Tee fitting in the block for the alarm and sender.
I think the difference is because of the Tee. The gauge sender is farther away from the flow than it used to be skewing the reading.
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  #90   IP: 73.86.201.230
Old 04-04-2017, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by ndutton View Post
I think the difference is because of the Tee. The gauge sender is farther away from the flow than it used to be skewing the reading.
Interesting. So 140 is the new 170 for us old guys? (Just kidding, I'm only 160)
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