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  #126   IP: 67.237.237.50
Old 09-20-2015, 11:29 AM
toddster toddster is offline
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Aye Aye. (It was the buzzer ground.) I was thinking of thinking of some clever circuit that would activate a flashing LED to indicate that the alarm was silenced, but I had finished my beer by that point.
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  #127   IP: 67.237.237.64
Old 10-25-2016, 09:51 PM
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Here's an idea that's been growing on me. I spotted this in several photos on the blog of a guy who sailed an Ericson 29 across the Pacific.


It's never mentioned explicitly (as far as I can tell - half of the blog is in Danish) but it appears that he's replaced the lower drop board with an instrument pod and relocated the engine gauges there. The lower board (and maybe the second) would be locked in place all the time off shore anyway, so no real loss of function. Not sure about the inconvenience of stepping over it while at anchor or in-shore. Maybe one could arrange to "unplug" the electrics and stow it?

I wouldn't do it quite like that, but it does neatly get all the wires out of the sail locker, shorten up the wire runs, and provide easy access for maintenance. And my hatch boards need replacement soon, anyway.

After a few years of use, I've realized that the sailing instruments need to be on the centerline, too. I've had a few close calls (and *ahem* a firm grounding) because I was hiked out to starboard, and couldn't read the depth gauge over on the port side. They'd probably go up high though, in a pod above the hatch. But I still need to decide whether to stick with the sliding hatch and drop boards arrangement, or try to fit a watertight hatch in there.

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  #128   IP: 67.237.237.64
Old 10-25-2016, 10:30 PM
toddster toddster is offline
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Arcturus Atomic 4 in 2016

Haven't really used the engine much this year, but did a few upgrades at one point.

The main thing was cleaning up some of the tangled wiring and hoses in the engine compartment. Well, there's still room for improvement, but it seems safer than it was before. Installed a proper grounding bus and cleared away all the scabbed-on ground wires from the engine. Installed a fuse block for the previously unfused engine circuits. Bypassed the sketchy non-functional cockpit ammeter with a short 4-ga. wire directly to the starter lug. Upgraded to Groco strainer. Then finally installed the Moyer EWDS, which added a bunch more wires after I'd just got done cleaning up all the extraneous wiring!



I was mildly unhappy with the EWDS package configuration. All the wires come straight out the back, which means it can't be mounted flush. Seems like they ought to come out one of the long sides, instead. I ended up making another hole and mounting the box in the water tank compartment, with the wires sticking into the engine compartment. Then I used the protruding screws to attach cable and hose clamps.


Sort of engine-related: I made a new enclosure for a new main hot bus and got rid of the rats nest of hot wires inside the galley cabinet. Left a little room for expansion.

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  #129   IP: 72.218.175.163
Old 10-26-2016, 09:11 AM
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Nice looking work Toddster. I just realized you are Ericson Toddster, too! (I am not supercharged, thus a little slow on the uptake)
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  #130   IP: 24.152.132.65
Old 10-26-2016, 09:29 AM
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There were two nylon mounting bushings included in the EWDS kit to mount the module with wires and ethernet port in the orientation you preferred.
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  #131   IP: 67.237.237.64
Old 10-26-2016, 01:45 PM
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Yes. Sorry, but I found mounting the box out on the end of those skinny bushings to be a pretty sketchy proposition. If I had wanted to suspend it in space, I'd have replaced them with a couple of plastic blocks. But the unit would stick out way too far and access to the connectors would still be poor. I might have used the same plastic material to make a bracket, so that the side of the unit was flush against the bulkhead and the wires pointed down, but by the time I thought of that, the hole was already drilled.
Moral of the story: Relax and have a beer before drilling holes.
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  #132   IP: 24.152.132.65
Old 10-26-2016, 09:50 PM
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The bushings were intended to allow mounting the module with it's back against a bulkhead without deflecting the mounting flanges, not suspend it in space.

Sorry you found it not to your liking.
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  #133   IP: 67.237.237.64
Old 10-27-2016, 01:20 AM
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Ah, I see. Somehow that didn't occur to me either. That would have been the next iteration. Another 90°. Makes more sense now.

Last edited by toddster; 10-27-2016 at 01:24 AM.
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  #134   IP: 24.152.132.65
Old 11-01-2016, 08:00 PM
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Took a few pictures today of the intended module mount using the provided bushings.
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  #135   IP: 67.237.228.97
Old 03-15-2017, 11:43 PM
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And I found those spacers rolling around in the chart table. But that's not today's problem.

No coolant flow upon startup last week. As suspected, the Sherwood R30G raw water pump needed a new impeller. Also the cam was worn and broken, which probably caused the impeller to shred.

So: new impeller, new cam. Still no flow.

They appear to have sent me a brass cam instead of a bronze one. (No choice was offered.) But it seems to fit just the same.



All hoses are clear. There is some suction required to overcome resistance from the water flow sensor. Some pressure required to fill up the standpipe. But I can't even get more than an anemic trickle with the output hose removed, and it's easily stopped with a finger. No pressure developed.

It's pretty easy to blow air through the pump. Maybe too easy? The only trick I have left is order a new case cover, which shows some wear. But how would this suddenly change from last month? And that would put me half way toward the price of a new pump...

Anybody have any other ideas?
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  #136   IP: 24.152.132.65
Old 03-16-2017, 12:09 AM
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I suspect cavity wear. With calipers measure the cavity depth and impeller width. The impeller should be a hair wider than the cavity. If the other way around, that pump is done.

I've been able to resurrect two worn Obedorfers by sanding the pump face (not the cover) on a stationary sander but it's not recommended.
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Last edited by ndutton; 03-16-2017 at 11:20 PM.
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  #137   IP: 67.237.228.97
Old 03-16-2017, 01:17 AM
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That sounds reasonable. It just really bugs me that the thing could "wear out" while just sitting there over the winter. Something to do with the antifreeze soak, maybe...
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  #138   IP: 205.210.223.133
Old 03-16-2017, 08:59 AM
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Is the new impeller the same thickness (i.e. depth in the housing) as the old one? I've read that some have been less thick / deep, which could lead to these symptoms.

Have you added a thicker (or, accidentally, a second) gasket to the back of the pump when you replaced the backplate?
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  #139   IP: 67.237.228.97
Old 03-16-2017, 01:54 PM
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Yes and no. Of course I checked these things, but this "new" impeller originally came as a two-pack with the old impeller. I thought maybe the new cam was riding a smidgeon high compared to the old one, so might try lapping that down a bit. But I don't think the cover would seal if that were really the problem.

Dang. It's a perfect day for a sail too. But with the river in flood, I'm not certain I could get back against the current under sail alone. I used to do it on the Hobie 16, but even that was a close thing this time of year.
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  #140   IP: 67.237.228.97
Old 03-16-2017, 01:58 PM
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I guess I could always switch back to RWC for a few days.
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  #141   IP: 161.213.49.150
Old 03-16-2017, 04:19 PM
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Have you tried priming the pump? As noted in post 136 pump cavities wear. This results in the pump not having as much suction as it used to. If the cavity is not to worn you should be able to get it pumping with a prime and it will work just fine.

TRUE GRIT
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  #142   IP: 67.237.228.97
Old 03-16-2017, 06:10 PM
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Yes I primed it. The system should be self-priming because it's a couple of inches below the waterline. However the water flow sensor (part of the EWDS) impedes most of the flow. I had thought to bypass it temporarily as part of the troubleshooting, but convinced myself that it's working properly.

So... I sanded down the pump cover on my lunch break - removed the wear marks on it. It took a bit of work to remove the deeper groove where the impeller hub rests. Nothing left to lose, if that part is toasted anyway. There's some corresponding wear in the back case, but not as much. Will try it tonight.

Hmm... While I was at it, I pulled my spare Oberdorfer (fresh water) gear-driven pump off the shelf and it seems to be in about the same shape. I guess I should test and rehab all those "spare" units some dark winter day, or get rid of them.
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  #143   IP: 24.152.132.65
Old 03-16-2017, 07:07 PM
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Testing of the flow sensor showed it imparts a 7% restriction. Said the other way around, that means you have 93% flow with it installed. I have mine on the discharge side.
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  #144   IP: 67.237.228.97
Old 03-16-2017, 11:05 PM
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Success! Well, at least as much flow as I had last year.

I didn't get around to trying to move the flow sensor to the other side of the engine. Whatever small amount of force is required to open the sensor is enough to block most of the flow when there is only a couple inches of head. Still, a little trickle comes through, which should be enough to prime the pump.
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  #145   IP: 67.237.228.97
Old 05-29-2017, 09:34 PM
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Finally I am moving forward on the long-contemplated engine instrument panel rebuild. The old one is a combination of dead and mismatched gauges, empty holes, and exposed wiring dangling in the sail locker. At this point, I'm 90% sure I'll go with the location shown on the boat in this photo (This location seems to have been used on a number of E27's, but I haven't seen it on an E29 - possibly the routing isn't quite as direct.) Just inside the companionway on the side of the molded-in cabinet.


Pros: Inside out of the weather (I've had two Isspro gauges fail after being left outside for a winter. And fogging/condensation issues with the others.) Start button can still be reached from the helm and operated by touch. That cabinet is already a wiring nexus - contains backs of sailing instruments, shore power connector, SeaTalk bus, etc. Wiring is easily accessible and protected from cargo. Easily reached and read while working on the engine, immediately below the ladder. No more climbing into the sail locker!

Cons: Will have to remove a nice grab-handle. Have to lean into the companionway to read instruments from the cockpit. (Not worse than bending down to read them upside down between the ankles, though.) Not in direct line-of-sight while "driving" but I do have the EWDS installed to warn of problems.

So, today's ponderables : There is not currently a working ammeter or voltmeter on the engine panel. Given that both are available on the main electrical panel, one step away, and maybe even along the same sight line, is there any need for a separate voltmeter on the engine panel? I can't think of one. (My main panel would correspond to the right hand edge of the photo.) I'm currently running everything off a single battery bank, with a reserve battery available via the 1-2-off switch.

This gets all the electrics out of the cockpit footwell, but I wonder if there is any way to get the shifter/throttle assembly out as well? Every single guest kicks the throttle at some point, and the sheets are constantly getting wrapped around it. Has anybody done something like that? Nothing really feasible has come to mind yet. Oh well. Not today's project.

Last edited by toddster; 05-29-2017 at 09:36 PM.
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