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  #1   IP: 71.71.116.117
Old 06-25-2017, 08:30 PM
rockhopper rockhopper is online now
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Question Pearson 30 questions...any answers?

1. My Pearson 30 has a black plug on the port side of the cockpit, it appears to have 2 pins and has the brand name Guest on it. What is this for?

2. On the starboard side of the cockpit closer to the tiller there is an aluminum screw plug a little smaller than a cigarette lighter. Does anyone know what this is? I haven't been able to unscrew the cap off it to see what's under it.

3. How are the seacocks supposed to work? There seems to be a handle on one side and a twisting side. I can spin the twisting side loose but the handle with the rubber on it don't seem to move.

4. What brand of gauges did Pearson use on the engine? My temp. sensor for my Atomic 4 appears to be pressure operated, the sender is old and the fitting is corroded from my old enine, Ken with Moyer Marine said he hadn't seen a pressure operated temp that he could remember. The gauge reads Sunpro.
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  #2   IP: 73.28.211.141
Old 06-25-2017, 08:41 PM
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Rock, pictures would be quite helpful.
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Old 06-26-2017, 12:22 AM
Marty Levenson Marty Levenson is online now
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Probably...

1. Guest makes battery chargers. Shore power in, trickle charge to batteries out. Follow the wires and check with a meter when power hooked up.

2. Sounds like the electric plug for the auto helm.

3. The ball valve handle is likely frozen. Penetrating oil, time, and repeated medium force wiggling might work it loose. Replace the whole valve next haulout.

4. Sound like you need a new sender and probably a new gauge.
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Old 06-27-2017, 08:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by romantic comedy View Post
Rock, pictures would be quite helpful.
Yeah, sorry I forgot to grab pictures. I just wasn't sure if it was a factory installed option.
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Originally Posted by Marty Levenson View Post
1. Guest makes battery chargers. Shore power in, trickle charge to batteries out. Follow the wires and check with a meter when power hooked up.

2. Sounds like the electric plug for the auto helm.

3. The ball valve handle is likely frozen. Penetrating oil, time, and repeated medium force wiggling might work it loose. Replace the whole valve next haulout.

4. Sound like you need a new sender and probably a new gauge.
2. Was the auto helm a factory option? I'm pretty sure whatever plugged in is no longer on the boat.
3. It is on the hard right now so...What did the factory valves look like? What I've got on the 2 valves appear to be closer to a "Tapered Cone Seacock" like seen here http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/t..._cone_seacocks The raw water connection for the engine cooling is nothing other than a water hose connection like on my house. What is a better option for this? A marine grade ball valve?
4. I was guessing I might have to get a new sender or a new gauge to match the sender from the replacement motor. Is it possible to match gauges to the sender without knowing the make of the gauge?

Last edited by rockhopper; 06-27-2017 at 08:59 PM.
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Old 06-27-2017, 08:15 PM
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Rock
#3 - I think Groco used to make a seacock with a handle on one side and a wing nut of sorts on the other..If I remember, you spin the handle 90° and then locked the rubber inside shut with the nut on the other side to close the water flow. Great stuff back in the 70's, but junk now. I had a couple of these and the rubber inside broke free of the handle..I ripped them out and went to Marelon seacocks and have never looked back.
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  #6   IP: 174.194.17.157
Old 07-01-2017, 07:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sastanley View Post
Rock
#3 - I think Groco used to make a seacock with a handle on one side and a wing nut of sorts on the other..If I remember, you spin the handle 90° and then locked the rubber inside shut with the nut on the other side to close the water flow. Great stuff back in the 70's, but junk now. I had a couple of these and the rubber inside broke free of the handle..I ripped them out and went to Marelon seacocks and have never looked back.
Right you were, it's a Groco SV750. Just got one of them to move, will dismantle it to check it's condition. What did the Marelon seacock cost and how was installation?
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Old 07-01-2017, 08:15 AM
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I also went with the Marelon seacock for the engine raw water. It was about $50 from Defender. You will also need a Marelon thru hull to go with it. The raw water inlet on my boat is 1/2 inch, Marelon was the only seacock I could find for 1/2 inch thru hulls.
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Old 07-01-2017, 09:31 AM
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How would the Marelon thruhull fitting work with the raw water scoop?

Installing my FWC kit on my new to me Atomic 4 now.
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Old 07-01-2017, 09:51 AM
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Here are all the parts I used for my raw water inlet. The valve, thru hull and tail piece are all 1/2 inch NPS. The strainer is optional, there are differing opinions on the need for the strainer on a sailboat. If you install the strainer, make sure the strainer portion faces aft, you don't want to scoop water when the engine is off. I also epoxied a fiberglass backing plate to the hull between the hull and the seacock. Secure the seacock to the hull with 1/4-20 stainless or bronze bolts. Good instructions for replacing a seacock can be found at:

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/replacing_thruhulls
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Old 07-01-2017, 10:13 AM
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Kind of nervous about drilling anything into the hull. I seen on that site there were some options for now drilling into the hull. What's your thoughts?
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Old 07-01-2017, 10:21 AM
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I went ahead and drilled thru the hull, counter sunk the holes for the bolt heads and faired over them with thickened epoxy. I also used 4200 sealant around the threads and bolt heads. There is no chance they are going to leak.
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Old 07-13-2017, 08:10 PM
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The two thruhulls appear to be in good shape for their age, finally loosened the nut up more and the valve turned. So for the time being I think I'm leaving them alone.

Does anyone have any photos of how the P-30 exhaust system was setup?
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Old 07-13-2017, 11:57 PM
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If you open and close the through hull valves every once in a while they will not "freeze" or corrode in one position.

TRUE GRIT
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Old 07-14-2017, 12:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JOHN COOKSON View Post
If you open and close the through hull valves every once in a while they will not "freeze" or corrode in one position.

TRUE GRIT
. . . . aka exercising the valves.
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Old 07-14-2017, 01:04 PM
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Pearson 30 Hot Exhaust

Here's a photo of my original exhaust, consisting (under the lagging) of a 1-1/4" x 1-1/2" reducer, two 1-1/2" els, some short 1-1/2" nipples sized to fit, and a 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" x 1/2" reducing tee for a mixing fitting, and a short piece of 1-1/2" exhaust hose to the waterlift muffler. Sea water (both raw water and FW cooled engine) was injected via a perforated cooper spray tube downward into the 1/2" port of the tee. Except for this tube, all parts were threaded steel pipe, which should be available from any good local plumbing supply.
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Old 07-14-2017, 01:10 PM
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Pearson 30 Hot Exhaust

When I rebuild the hot section, in order to reduce back pressure I reduced the three 90° turns to one by replacing the two els with 45° pieces. This also made the whole assembly a few inches shorter in length which meant moving the waterlift forward about 6", a modification that took about a half hour. All pieces downstream of the mixing tee are 316 stainless from McMaster.
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Old 07-14-2017, 01:17 PM
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Pearson 30 Hot Exhaust

Here is a drawing of the present hot section.
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  #18   IP: 174.193.135.229
Old 07-15-2017, 10:06 AM
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How is this water scoop thruhull for the raw water engine intake supposed to seal? I can wiggle it which concerns me, I wanted to try to install a ball valve to replace that spicket valve.
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Old 07-16-2017, 09:01 AM
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Please read the following articles:
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/replacing_thruhulls
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/external_strainers
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Old 07-17-2017, 03:57 PM
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Exclamation

What size was the raw water thruhull for the engine cooling size? Mine had an external strainer facing forward (read that was a bad idea as well since it could scoop up the water and overflow back into the engine when the engine was off) and a 3/8" gate valve. Don and Ken both said that was too small so I was just curious as to what size Pearson had used.

What size was the wet exhaust port on the aft of the boat? Mine I think is 2".

Last edited by rockhopper; 08-08-2017 at 08:13 PM.
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Old 07-17-2017, 04:35 PM
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My Pearson 10M had a 1/2 inch thru hull and valve for the engine water intake. As noted above, I recently installed a 1/2 inch Marlon seacock, thru hull and strainer.
The exhaust outlet on the transom is 1.5 inches on my boat.
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Last edited by Tim; 07-17-2017 at 06:21 PM.
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Old 07-17-2017, 06:51 PM
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1978 Pearson 30 OEM through hull sizes (hose I.Ds. are the same):

Engine exhaust 1-1/2"
Cockpit scuppers, port & stbd 1-1/2"
Engine raw water 3/4"
Galley sink drain 1-1/2"
Head flushing water 3/4"
Head sink drain 3/4"
Head (toilet) overboard discharge 1-1/2"
Holding tank overboard discharge (macerator pump) 1-1/2"
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  #23   IP: 174.194.31.80
Old 07-17-2017, 07:06 PM
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The smaller hose is a 1 1/2" hose from the old water lift muffler, the bigger hose went to the exhaust port on the aft. So I'm not sure but I'm almost certain that one hose is bigger.
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Old 07-17-2017, 08:26 PM
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In your pictures, if the left hand hose from the waterlift heading aft to the transom is 1-1/2" I.D., and the right hand hose that you apparently cut off the fitting, is, say, 1-3/4" I.D., then:

1) Somewhere between the waterlift exit port (which should be 1-1/2" O.D.) and the transom fitting should be a 1-1/2" to 1-3/4" hose adapter.
2) This adapter could be metal (good) or of plastic (not good - it can melt, or be eaten up by acids in the exhaust). This fitting might not be visible, but you should be able to feel the hoses change size.
3) Take a calipers or good tape and measure the O.D. of the transom fitting. This will confirm the hose size you need at the transom.

I see no problem in using a hose adapter if it is corrosion resistant metal, and if hose clamps are used on both sides.
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Old 07-17-2017, 10:06 PM
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Is the fuel line sized differently? I purchased some new 1 1/2" fuel hose for my tank, the smaller hose on the left wouldn't tighten up enough on the cockpit scuppers but the new fuel line fit the scuppers great..perhaps this hose was just old and worn. I will take some measurements of the items I have at home in the morning.

Yes, after the hose left the muffler it hit a 90 and the hose got just a little bigger.

Last edited by rockhopper; 07-17-2017 at 10:11 PM.
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