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  #26   IP: 71.179.128.129
Old 10-09-2017, 12:06 PM
sdemore sdemore is offline
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That isn't the max RPM. There is a detent about 1/2" up from idle on the throttle. I don't know why it is there, but it seemed to be a good place to put the throttle to move at 4-5 knots before backing off on the carb. I'll have to take it out to test where it is later.

I do need to get the ignition set right. I had the timing right when it was on a stand in the garage. Didn't have a dwell meter at the time,so that was just approximated. I have a dwell meter now, but haven't used one in 20+ years, so need to refresh.
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  #27   IP: 172.222.238.142
Old 10-09-2017, 12:29 PM
Dave Neptune Dave Neptune is offline
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There is no detent on the carb! You have a compromised cable or a kink in the cable assembly somewhere. Possibly in the control itself.
Disconnect the cable from the carb and check the cable and the throttle arm for "SMOOTH" movement.

This needs to be correct so we can diagnose the issue of RPM's and response.

Something is not right here.

Dave Neptune
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  #28   IP: 71.179.128.129
Old 10-09-2017, 02:45 PM
sdemore sdemore is offline
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Dave, I think the detent is built into the throttle assembly in the cockpit. It doesn't feel like anything is wrong, just that they built the assembly with some kind of preferred setting position in it.

The carb has no detent itself and is actually a brand new Moyer unit. My original was sent off to a rebuild facility in NJ and every time I call them, it is right here, ready to go. It's been 7 months now, so I've written it (and them) off.
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  #29   IP: 70.160.122.207
Old 10-11-2017, 12:30 PM
indigo indigo is offline
 
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Lessons Learned

Steve, having just been through a very similar FWC conversion, I would like to pass along several observations and lessons learned from that experience.
First off, centrifugal pumps in general do not behave well when there are any compromises in the suction circuit. I cannot tell for sure, but it appears that your suction hose configuration may not be fully 3/4" from HX to pump. If that is really the case, I would recommend that you change it to be a simple 3/4" hose all the way. Restrictions and irregularities in the suction path can readily cause varying degrees of cavitation within the pump and seriously degrade output.
Secondly, since you are now configured with no thermostat and no bypass, you may want to consider a cross check on your engine temperature by shooting the fitting at the coolant exit from the manifold (as far away from the manifold itself as possible) with an IR gun. Granted, the IR guns can give erroneous readings for a number of reasons but it would at least give you another data point. It is very possible that you will obtain a lower reading. If so, you may even want to consider relocating the existing temperature sender unit from its current location in the head to a new tee fitting installed where the coolant exits the manifold. My experience has shown that the traditional head location of the sender gives a higher temperature reading than actual coolant temperature, especially at higher power levels. If you elect to relocate the sender, make absolutely sure that you use a 6 point socket on the sender to prevent rounding the corners on the hex head.

Food for thought,
Tom Stevens
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  #30   IP: 72.194.223.97
Old 10-11-2017, 07:23 PM
JOHN COOKSON JOHN COOKSON is online now
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More Food

If the engine is running start it and run it up to temperature. While the engine is running at temperature see if you can break the sending unit loose.
The heat + vibration will help break the sending unit loose.

TRUE GRIT
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  #31   IP: 137.103.82.194
Old 10-11-2017, 07:59 PM
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I used a 6 point impact socket and a long breaker bar. Worked well
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  #32   IP: 70.160.122.207
Old 10-12-2017, 09:24 AM
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Steam in Exhaust

Steve, I re-read your posts and the "Steam in the Exhaust" statement kept jumping out at me. After reviewing your engine images again, it appears that your raw water goes through your strainer, into and out of the HX and then into the raw water pump. Although that pump is a "positive displacement" pump, it would still prefer to have a free flowing suction circuit. The traditional and recommended routing of the raw water is in through the strainer, into and out of the raw water pump, into and out of the HX and then into the exhaust system. It may well be that your current configuration is reducing your raw water flow at higher RPMs and thus giving you the steam. I would recommend that you re-route your raw water system.

Again, food for thought,

Tom Stevens
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  #33   IP: 137.200.0.112
Old 10-12-2017, 12:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by indigo View Post
Steve, I re-read your posts and the "Steam in the Exhaust" statement kept jumping out at me. After reviewing your engine images again, it appears that your raw water goes through your strainer, into and out of the HX and then into the raw water pump. Although that pump is a "positive displacement" pump, it would still prefer to have a free flowing suction circuit. The traditional and recommended routing of the raw water is in through the strainer, into and out of the raw water pump, into and out of the HX and then into the exhaust system. It may well be that your current configuration is reducing your raw water flow at higher RPMs and thus giving you the steam. I would recommend that you re-route your raw water system.

Again, food for thought,

Tom Stevens
Good catch!
No way should the pump suck through the heat exchanger!
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  #34   IP: 71.179.128.129
Old 10-12-2017, 09:26 PM
sdemore sdemore is offline
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Excellent suggestions, I'll reroute the hoses this weekend!

Joe/John/Tom - When I got this boat last winter, the engine was in pieces, packed in boxes. I put almost every part together during the rebuild. The sensor is wrench tight, with teflon tape still fresh on it. It comes out without any difficulty, so I'll see if I can find the fittings to move it as well. I hadn't thought about the location, but have wondered about the accuracy of the gauge, which is pretty old.

Steve
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  #35   IP: 24.53.90.221
Old 10-13-2017, 05:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdemore View Post
The sensor is wrench tight, with teflon tape still fresh on it.
The sensor circuit ground is the engine. The Teflon tape "might" be causing a poor ground.

I seem to recall reading somewhere on this forum that Teflon tape on sensors can create problems.

http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/sh...79&postcount=6

Hope that helps,

Peter
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  #36   IP: 71.179.128.129
Old 10-13-2017, 06:10 AM
sdemore sdemore is offline
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I wondered about that when I was installing them. I checked with an ohmmeter and had conductivity, but maybe it is enough to measure, but not enough for operation. When I move the sensor, I'll leave the tape off, as long as it doesn't leak.
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  #37   IP: 137.103.82.194
Old 10-13-2017, 08:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sdemore View Post
I wondered about that when I was installing them. I checked with an ohmmeter and had conductivity, but maybe it is enough to measure, but not enough for operation. When I move the sensor, I'll leave the tape off, as long as it doesn't leak.
I use tape on mine, but make sure I have 0 ohms or close to it from the sensor body to ground. Normally the threads cut through the teflon, but you need to check. I prefer independent ground sensors when you can find them. I have one on my fuel pressure gauge.
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