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  #1   IP: 50.206.89.98
Old 10-11-2017, 11:45 AM
Chris Simenstad's Avatar
Chris Simenstad Chris Simenstad is offline
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Eliminating the anmeter

A few years ago I replaced the original stock 35 amp Motorola with the 55 amp API alternator. The voltage at the batteries seemed to inch up very slowly when recharging. I assumed that the Motorola was worn.

For the most part, the API doesn't charge any faster. After a few hours of motoring it gets up to about 13.5 volts, so when I am on a two week cruise, the batteries are only partially charged.

Looking at the wiring, I see that there is an orange wire that runs from the alternator back to the anmeter in the cockpit, then back to the starter and battery switch. I assume that I am getting significant voltage drop.

I'd like to:

- eliminate the anmeter, and add a tach in its place. (The other gauges are oil pressure and operating temp, and all three share wires)
- Add a voltmeter near the switch panel in the cabin.

How do I remove the anmeter without affecting the other gauges? And without it, how should I run the wire from the alternator? Just go straight from the alternator to the starter?

-Chris
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  #2   IP: 137.103.82.194
Old 10-11-2017, 12:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Simenstad View Post
A few years ago I replaced the original stock 35 amp Motorola with the 55 amp API alternator. The voltage at the batteries seemed to inch up very slowly when recharging. I assumed that the Motorola was worn.

For the most part, the API doesn't charge any faster. After a few hours of motoring it gets up to about 13.5 volts, so when I am on a two week cruise, the batteries are only partially charged.

Looking at the wiring, I see that there is an orange wire that runs from the alternator back to the anmeter in the cockpit, then back to the starter and battery switch. I assume that I am getting significant voltage drop.

I'd like to:

- eliminate the anmeter, and add a tach in its place. (The other gauges are oil pressure and operating temp, and all three share wires)
- Add a voltmeter near the switch panel in the cabin.

How do I remove the anmeter without affecting the other gauges? And without it, how should I run the wire from the alternator? Just go straight from the alternator to the starter?

-Chris
This is very much worth doing and there are likely 50 threads on it.
You can try this thread:
http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/sh...ight=voltmeter
that contains this picture
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  #3   IP: 67.237.110.178
Old 10-11-2017, 05:31 PM
toddster toddster is offline
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As soon as I ran the bypass wire (I think mine is about 8 inches of 4 gauge) there was a huge change. When the alternator kicks in, the voltmeter jumps right up. I don't think the ammeter was working at all.

Re: "Removing the ammeter without affecting the other gauges." The way my control panel came, all the gauges were daisy-chained together in a nasty snarl of wires - many of which terminated at the ammeter, as it was "the source" for panel lights, blower, hour meter, etc. The simple - but probably not correct - thing to do would be just rearrange the daisy chain and jump all those extra 12V+ wires (if present) to the "battery" terminal. Thus maintaining the original rats nest arrangement. I did this as a "temporary measure."

But recently, I built a new control panel and complete new wiring harness for the engine, using a fuse block and terminal buses for "ground" "always 12V+" and "switched 12V+." Plus another terminal strip for all the instrument lights. It was a lot of work and a whole lot of wiring connectors. But now any component can be removed (or tested) by disconnecting its terminal screws, without affecting the rest.

Last edited by toddster; 10-11-2017 at 05:53 PM.
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