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  #1   IP: 73.100.102.161
Old 04-16-2017, 09:15 AM
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Instead of rebuilding my original A4, I bought a spare one!

Yesterday, I picked up a used A4 from the next town over...Mainly, I did this for several reasons with number being that this A4, from the outside at least, is in much better shape than mine...It was started and ran for a while before I bought it and came with the engine bed.

I am excited to get this as it gives me an opportunity to get it ready easily with paint, FWC, etc.

I first want to check compression on 4 cylinders...If all is good, I plan on just removing the head and side jackets to make sure cooling passages are clean and clear...while at it, I will paint all major pieces separately using the por15 engine paint kit in Pontiac light blue.

Looking forward to it! I still have major work going on my Tartan 34 including removal of all deck hardware, rot removal, etc...so this will probably be done little by little...I plan on providing updates on this project as things get done on this thread.
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1971 Tartan 34C Sloop "NOVA LUNA", original raw water A4 (Bought boat in 2014)
1968 Tartan 27 Yawl "Destinada", rebuilt Old Lyme freshwater A4 (Sold boat in 2014)
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  #2   IP: 24.152.132.65
Old 04-16-2017, 09:25 AM
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Looks like a good score and a fine example of the strategy of choosing one's battles.
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  #3   IP: 73.100.102.161
Old 04-16-2017, 09:25 AM
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BTW: I have a small oil leak in the two area below...I assume there are seals that need to be addressed. Input?
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1971 Tartan 34C Sloop "NOVA LUNA", original raw water A4 (Bought boat in 2014)
1968 Tartan 27 Yawl "Destinada", rebuilt Old Lyme freshwater A4 (Sold boat in 2014)
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Old 04-16-2017, 09:33 AM
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The leak at the flywheel is due to lifting and shipping. There is no seal at that end. The leak from the rear is in fact a rear seal that needs replacement. Easy job out of the boat.
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Old 04-16-2017, 10:16 AM
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Southcoasting:

I went through exactly the same process and found it extremely satisfying - I trust you will too. http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/album.php?albumid=150

The por15 black primer is really good - pay attention to the warning about sticking to skin - it won't come off for days if not a week or more.

It looks like the PO paid some attention to the engine - that's a nice find!
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Old 04-17-2017, 09:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BunnyPlanet169 View Post
Southcoasting:

I went through exactly the same process and found it extremely satisfying - I trust you will too. http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/album.php?albumid=150

The por15 black primer is really good - pay attention to the warning about sticking to skin - it won't come off for days if not a week or more.

It looks like the PO paid some attention to the engine - that's a nice find!
WOW! looks great! Interesting things you did...Why the 3 hoses going into side plate? Better flow?

The home made electrolysis, can you explain more? Was this used for rust removal or paint removal? How did you remove paint from block?

I was planning on aircraft paint remover...but if you have a better alternative, I'd love to know about it...
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1971 Tartan 34C Sloop "NOVA LUNA", original raw water A4 (Bought boat in 2014)
1968 Tartan 27 Yawl "Destinada", rebuilt Old Lyme freshwater A4 (Sold boat in 2014)
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  #7   IP: 12.189.199.68
Old 04-17-2017, 09:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ndutton View Post
The leak at the flywheel is due to lifting and shipping. There is no seal at that end. The leak from the rear is in fact a rear seal that needs replacement. Easy job out of the boat.
Got it...thank you! Will order new seal soon.
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1968 Tartan 27 Yawl "Destinada", rebuilt Old Lyme freshwater A4 (Sold boat in 2014)
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  #8   IP: 76.179.119.203
Old 04-17-2017, 12:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by southcoasting View Post
WOW! looks great! Interesting things you did...Why the 3 hoses going into side plate? Better flow?
Thanks! Yes, described previously in this thread. http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8979
Have to be honest and say it was a completely irrational PTSD response to a bad cooling experience. The A4 can and will live with less, but I wanted to try and replicate something like the original side jacket casting. I'm not sure I'd do this again.

Quote:
The home made electrolysis, can you explain more? Was this used for rust removal or paint removal? How did you remove paint from block? I was planning on aircraft paint remover...but if you have a better alternative, I'd love to know about it...
Removes rust and (loosens) paint - the bond fails and the paint falls off. Described previously in this thread. http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8526 As I mention in the thread, this is not my original idea, but something common in the old tools / old iron community.

After I found my block had been recently rebuilt (that was a really good day), I took a calculated risk and didn't separate the main castings (rear housing, block, and oil pan). I cleaned them with solvents and wipes, and did some sanding/wire brushing to make the surfaces as friendly as possible for the primer. I used the POR spray acid etch to prevent surface rust and add 'tooth' on bare metal.

It really depends on how far you're planning on / need to disassemble. If I had fully disassembled, I would have taken the big parts to get hot tanked and started from bare metal. My tub was big enough for the flywheel housing and everything else.
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  #9   IP: 12.189.199.68
Old 04-17-2017, 03:03 PM
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Ran compression test today. Ran engine until warm btw...

3 of the 4 cylinders came back at 100...One came back at 80. Poured a little oil and it jumped to 90.

I assume piston ring is in question?
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