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Old 03-27-2017, 05:13 AM
The Garbone The Garbone is offline
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Rebuilt no Flow

Having rebuilt my motor from 2 donors, a 1976 and a 1964 I chose to put the 1964 head on due to installing FWC and not wanting the thermostat contraption on top.

When I took the block and head in they were cleaned using media blasting and the block got new cylinders. The shop told me they did their best getting the sediment buildup out of the parts. I did have a little rattling of sediment chunks in the head and used a screw driver to break them up and remove the bits.

As of September the motor had 25 hours on it with no cooling issues. Hurricane Matthew came thru so I did have time to use the boat until December. In December when starting the motor we noticed it overheating. After allowing it to cool I pulled the hose on the manifold, no coolant exited when I ran the electric pump but the pump did not turn with 12volts. No problem , ordered a new pump.

A new Pump has not fixed the problem, the pump runs but no coolant flow. I can remove the crossover hose off the head and get no flow out. Removed the cross over fitting and found the liquid under it full of rust etc. Explored the hole with a screw driver but still no flow.

I blow into the hose going to the side plate and can get no movement of air or coolant through the block and head.

My theory is that the sediment that was in the coolant passages has turned into mud over time and is now breaking loose and clogging the head. Any suggestions on a fix?

Do I need to remove the head and get it properly dipped (or get my spare head dipped and replace the current one) Is there a way to clean out the crud now that there is no flow to get an acid bath into the beast?

Before breaking out the sockets I thought I would ask by betters here on the forum.
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  #2   IP: 76.179.119.203
Old 03-27-2017, 08:05 AM
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Gary: I've been down this path, and here are my thoughts....

When you say 'sediment', I hear rust. Regardless, you're plugged up.

I assume you had a clean water jacket plate and that was all good during the rebuild? If true, then your problem is between the cylinder water jacket and the manifold cross-over.

If there is absolutely no flow, then soaking in vinegar or acid isn't an option - you've got to pop the head off and figure out where your problem is. If there were even an inkling of flow, I'd suggest a soak, but that has never worked for me (terminally plugged).

Take a good look and root around in each water passage coming up through the block. I suspect that is where your problem is, especially if anything was loose in the water jacket. Use a coat hanger or a length of 1/8 stainless aircraft cable to root around. You can chuck the cable into a cordless drill for low speed 'rooting'. Get the direction correct - don't unravel the cable. Most passages go straight down into the jacket around the cylinders, some dance around the intake and exhaust ports. If it doesn't have a stud in it, it's a water passage.

In a new head, you can do the same through the temperature sender port and get all the way to the back inside, not so much around the spark plugs. I think that's missing in the old head? If your new head is 'known good' or can be made so, I'd use it. Otherwise, make sure you can blow air through all the incoming passages (gasket side) to make sure they're clear. Hot tank if necessary.

Good luck!
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Old 03-27-2017, 08:05 AM
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I wouldn't be comfortable until the head and sideplate were removed and the entire system was thoroughly mucked out.
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prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22
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Old 03-27-2017, 08:27 AM
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Remove the head and hot-tank it?
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Old 03-27-2017, 09:40 AM
Dave Neptune Dave Neptune is online now
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The, start at the beginning before getting to much into all else.

First check the exit fitting on the manifold for a blockage, quite common. Then go to the beginning and start a check. Pull the line at the "tee" fitting on the side of the block. Give the engine a crank to be sure that the pump is indeed pumping. If there is a blockage at the fitting do remove the cover plat rather than poking around and then you can see inside!!!

You mentioned FWC so were you using coolant or water in the block?

The chunks of rust you mentioned can cause a blockage anywhere they can get stuck which is usually in front of a fitting or transfer of direction somewhere.

I did my engine long ago when I bought the boat and the engine was seized! I could not even idle without overheating due to rust and crap as I am RWC. I pulled the head and side plate got a drill motor as per Joe and used some stainless 3/32 welding rod. I bent a few kinks to fit into various passages and worked around the cylinders. I had the head tanked and checked. It checked bad and a minor trim of the head and she was flat again.

It was after reassembling that I learned of the common spots for a blockage to manifest. So after yer done keep an eye of "flow".

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Old 03-27-2017, 11:06 AM
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Old 03-27-2017, 12:04 PM
The Garbone The Garbone is offline
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Thanks for the feedback.

Yes this is a closed system with coolant not raw water. Normally I could remover the heat exchanger cap and see the return fluid swirling about in there. Now not so much.

The water jacket cover plate is new stainless from our host so that is not an issue. I guess I should take it off and shop vac out the jacket just to be safe.

So it looks like it is off with its head. This leaves me with a few questions.

Since I put on the gaskets dry can I assume I can reuse them or should I order a new set?

What do I look for on the head with a thermostat housing vs my old head? I may need to order the thermostat cover as I recall the one I had being corroded and I assume new studs. $82 dollars for a part I do not want to use is annoying. I could try to fix it with the 64' head but that adds time to the equation.
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Old 03-27-2017, 12:10 PM
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The path for coolant through the heat exchanger goes through some very small spaces. I am about 100% sure that will need cleaning too.
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Old 03-27-2017, 02:28 PM
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Gary: I have a spare housing in my junk box - I surely don't need two. PM me if you'd like it.
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  #9   IP: 144.160.226.96
Old 03-28-2017, 08:44 AM
The Garbone The Garbone is offline
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Thanks for the offer Bunny, it will be a few days before I can get around to digging in the garage. I am thinking about sticking with the older head and just getting it hot dipped and cleaning with a drill but then I think "maybe someday I will want a thermostat if I sail north and need the thermostat and bypass setup". I graduated High School in York so heading up there always has an appeal.
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Old 03-28-2017, 08:50 AM
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The Indigo thermostat can be plumbed in many ways, it does not need the new head to work

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Garbone View Post
Thanks for the offer Bunny, it will be a few days before I can get around to digging in the garage. I am thinking about sticking with the older head and just getting it hot dipped and cleaning with a drill but then I think "maybe someday I will want a thermostat if I sail north and need the thermostat and bypass setup". I graduated High School in York so heading up there always has an appeal.
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Old 03-28-2017, 09:04 AM
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Note on cleaning the heat exchanger:
You need to clean the FRESH WATER side. Taking the caps off does not help. I would start by taking the fresh water connections off and running a hose through it the opposite direction to normal flow.
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